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Logo Habana Vieja

Click to see the whole old town on a very large scale : don't get lost, mileage may vary, batteries nor included.
Habana Vieja (Old Havana) harbors the port - with more and more cruise ships -, the capital's main train station, half of the city's museums, 25 public places, parks and squares, twelve churches and twice as many hotels, all in buildings totally refurbished since 2002.

There are 3,500 buildings housing some 22,000 homes (casas and apartments) lodging some 70,000 Habaneros over 214 hectares : 300 buildings have been rejuvenated starting in 1982 by the office of the Historiador, Eusebio Leal and his team — is a
UNESCO World Heritage site brought back in time by a quarter century of monk-like hard work.

The biggest difference with the past is that
many streets are for pedestrians only. When town authorities elsewhere on the island saw the success of the walking streets in the old town, they soon adopted the same locally so that in less than 5 years, all of Cuba's large towns have a pedestrian street or, as Cubans call them, a bulevar.

It has given old Havana a newly-found youth, all the while respecting citizens living there before : they were put up in temporary quarters while their apartments were refurbished.

Today, the lively creative spirit of its heyday when it was known as the largest colonial architecture ensemble of the Americas is back.

The past years have been remembered as an epoch of great dust and noisy traffic as major renovations were ongoing on the Capitolio, the old shopping mall Manzana de Gomez facing Parque Central (now a Kempinski-run 246-room luxury hotel), the main bayside street avenida del Puerto, the Practicos del Pueblo (old firemens hq), the Plazuela de Paula promenade — all of which have come on the heels of the newly-opened Almacenes de San Jose and its neighbouring market & brewery, Madera y Tabaco.

Habana Vieja divided in 6 zones
Complete Map here •••• Each zone below :
1 Canal de Entrada
2 Plazas : de Armas, Catedral, San Francisco
3 Plaza Vieja
4 Plazuela de Paula
5 El Capitolio
6 Parque Central
Huge and detailed Habana Vieja map here
What's on in Old Havana — Opus Habana here
Visit these cultural icons in Vieja
And lots more Museums or Museos : some 80
Compare regular Hotel Rates with casa rates
Habana Bus Tour ride maybe ? Check this
Get outta' here — Visit Parque Lenin
Rising and downward tides - La Habana
English-speaking Habana Vieja guide
Martha Perez (7) 861-6284 : 25cuc for two, half-day. e-mail marthica1121 @yahoo.es Recommended by Elisa Surini of London UK.

Wander from plaza to plaza or look in the many new hotels, most small and charming, which are all animated at sunset. Also : Café de Paris, live music, 11h-23h, where most hustlers gather. Calle San Ignacio 202, corner Obispo; Casa de la Cultura-Vieja, shows every evening (except Monday) at 20h. Themes : bolero, son, afro, reggae. Calle Aguilar 509, e/Amarguara y Brasil; Edificio Bacardi, with a mezzanine over its magnificent hall. Walk up to the intimate bar, rather chic. Ask to go to the roof and feast your ojos. Calle Monserrate, e/Progreso y Empedrado.

Bosque Bologna at 460 Obispo, one of the best night spots, according to web site The Culture Trip - Others include Café Paris at San Ignacio 22, La Bodeguita del Medio on Empedrado, Bar Monserrate corner of Obrapia, El Patio on the Plaza de la Catedral, Café Taberna on Mercaderes, Santo Angel on Teniente Rey and their favorite, La Dichosa on Compostela - the loudest place in Old Havana. Obviously, the writer never tried to sleep in Old Havana, ah ?

* Remember that it gets dark between 6 and 6:30 pm, from December to March in Cuba

Located on Plaza Vieja, thanks to a collaborative project with the government of Japan and the Ministry of Science, the Planetario de la Habana Vieja has recently reopened in time to mark its 15th anniversary © Fernando Medina Fernandez, Cubahora

Comments (go on, make our dia)
webmaster @cubacasas.net

Mercaderes, corner O'Reilly © sogestour |• La Vieja y su sonrisa © sogestour

Corner of
Acosta y Compostela © sogestour | Real Fabrica de Tabacos, Cuba's most visited cigar factory © sogestour

La ville en rose © sogestour | Before the flamenco © sogestour

Largest arts & crafts market in the Caribbean
Almacenes de San Jose — covers 100,000 sq ft (9,500 sq m) in a refurbished port hangar, including bars and the lot. Next door, the Woodworks & Cigar (Madera y Tabaco) Exhibition Hall © sogestour | Jardin Diana de Gales - Park named after Diana Princess of Wales © sogestour

"Almost every restaurant and bar of Vieja we were in, the bills were tampered with by something like 20% : either bad math or prices different from the menu or a charge not mentioned on the menu".
source stefan-loose, july 2015

Feel like a full-day walk starting from Parque Central ? Part in Centro and the rest in Vieja. All 35 stops are described in Ingles, just click to download it. © angel perez & antonio cuan, recorridos por la habana

Alameda de Paula : it took years to restore this walkway along the bay. It leads to and from Almacenes San José, a huge Arts & Crafts indoor market with cafés, music, wifi and what nots. It is right by the Madera y Tabaco exhibition hall and café © Alvarez, Tocororo Travel

Yet another cruise ship (crucero) is entering the bay
Monster on starboard ! Yet another cruise ship (crucero) is entering the bay and dumping a coupla thousand souvenir seekers © Ismael Francisco Cubadebate

El Templete - the exact place where the city was founded, literally and municipally by a conquistador named Diego Velázquez de Cuéllar on August 25, 1515 © travelswithmoose

Feel the old town in and around its numerous public places, parks, squares and gardens.
Here's a list :
::: Paseo del Prado ::: (Prado e/Neptuno y Malecón),
::: Parque Carlos J. Finlay ::: (Cuba y Amargura),
Plaza de Armas ::: (Tacón e/ Obispo y O'Reilly),
Plaza de San Francisco ::: (Oficios y Amargura),
Parque Rumiñahui ::: (Mercaderes y Lamparilla),
::: Parque de La India ::: (Avenida de Prado y Monte),
::: Plaza de la Catedral ::: (Empedrado y San Ignacio),
::: Plaza Vieja ::: (San Ignacio e/ Teniente Rey y Muralla),
::: Parque Arqueológico ::: (Tacón e/ Empedrado y Tejadillo),
Parque Alejandro de Humboldt ::: (Oficios esq. a Muralla),
::: Parque Luz y Caballero ::: (Tacón e/ Empedrado y Tejadillo),
::: Plaza del Cristo ::: (Villegas, Teniente Rey, Bernaza y Lamparilla),
::: Parque de la Fraternidad ::: (Avenida de Prado e/ Reina y Dragones),
::: Parque San Juan de Dios ::: (Cuba y Mercaderes, e/Empedrado y O'Reilly),
::: Jardín ecológico Hans Christian Andersen ::: (Mercaderes e/Empedrado y O’Reilly),
::: Jardín Madre Teresa de Calcutta ::: (del Puerto, Plaza de San Francisco de Asís),
::: Parque Memorial Hasekura Tsunenaga ::: (del Puerto e/Cuba y Peña Pobre),
::: Alameda de Paula ::: (San Pedro e/Leonor Perez (Paula) y San Isidro),
::: Parque Aracelio Iglesias ::: (Oficios, Luz, Acosta y Alameda de Paula)
::: Jardín Las Carolinas ::: (Amargura e/ Mercaderes y San Ignacio),
::: Jardín Diana de Gales ::: (Baratillo e/Carpinetti y Obra Pía),
Parque Central ::: (Ave. Prado, Neptuno y Zulueta),
::: Jardín Aldama ::: (Amistad e/ Reina y Estrella),
::: Parque de los Mártires ::: (Zulueta y Prado),
::: Parque Calderón ::: (Oficios y Sol),
••• Torre La Vega — Best for breakfasts or a "fast-full" lunch; Obrapia 114, e/Mercaderes y Oficios ••• El Mercurio — Plaza San Francisco, at the foot of Lonja del Comercio (unofficial chamber of commerce), this terraza is ideal for lunch : a fat sandwich (a tartar or a langosta for your escort) and careful attention to hushed dialogs of neighbours ... ••• La Moneda Cubana — In this paladar (private restaurant), one finds simplicity in culinary form : chicken, fish and pork surrounded by graffitis and visiting cards; San Ignacio 77 corner Brasil (Teniente Rey) ••• Santo Angel — On a patio overlooking Plaza Vieja, the "new Cuban cuisine" is dear but original and tasty; corner San Ignacio and Brasil (7) 861-1626 ••• La Dominica Its facade opens onto the refurbished surface aqueduct on Mercaderes. Outside or in, we treated our taste buds to pastas and pizzas; moderately expensive; Calle O’Reilly 108, corner Mercaderes (7) 860-2918 ••• Puerto de Sagua — Affordable seafare, true habaneros; Belgica 603 ••• Al Medina — Couscous, tagine and vegetarian meals in a tasteful patio; Oficios 12, e/Obrapia et Obispo ••• Café del Oriente — Homard thermidor, smoked salmon, foie gras, "sturgeon eggs" : even platinum cards won't impress the waiters, who are dressed in smoking; Plaza San Francisco de Asis, calle Oficios 112 ••• El Patio — For the last moments of another great Vieja evening, bring the love of your life (or the temp passion ; ) here for an ultimo mojito; Plaza de la Catedral ••• Las Clavellinas — Good and affordable for 6 CUC; Compostela 554, e Sol y Muralla. ••• Tipping tips here

Lady in
red (waiting for pizza delivery? ;- ) © sogestour


« Best documentary about La Habana », dixit Marcos el webmaestro.

Plaza Vieja, restored after 20 years of meticulous workmanship by trabajadores of the Office of the Historiador © jesusromerop, panoramio

Finding the families is a project to locate kids and athletes whose picture was taken by Jon Lee in 1979. See anyone you know? Facebook page here.
••• Taberna de la Muralla — Where you can savour homemade brew marveling at the Plaza Vieja (above), the masterpiece of Eusebio Leal and his faithful crew; San Ignacio, corner Muralla ••• La Bodeguita del Medio If you did not — at least — pass by here, you did not see touristy Havana and hear some of the legends about Hemingway; Empedrado 207 ••• Café Paris — Open 24 hours, sometimes loud, full of singing clients and "frens"; Obispo 202 ••• La Marina — Quiet, shaded patio, cool atmosphere; Oficios, corner Brasil ••• Dos Hermanos — We like this no frills, historical drinking spot. In the 30's, Federico Garcia Loca did too; San Pedro 304 ••• La Floridita — Like the Bodeguita, a must for first-timers : where the daiquiri was invented and where Papa got drunk. Again ; ); Obispo 557 ••• La Lluvia de Oro — This "rain of gold" is a true pick-up place for singles and swingers, 'nuf said; Obispo 316
© sogestour ••• From the rooftop terrace of the Ambois Mundos Hotel where Hemingway kept room 511 for years. Yes, Madge, you can visit the bedroom.
::: Make sure that in your first email or phone call you specify that you want to book a room in that particular casa and that you will reconfirm your booking on arrival in Cuba.::: So as to not abandon expecting owners with empty rooms, reconfirm (or call ahead to cancel) your booking by phone as soon as you can after arriving in Cuba ::: Please write or phone a casa owner to cancel a booking. As late as it may seem, it allows them a chance to rebook. ::: Children under the age of 16 may share a bedroom with adults for free. Specify the child's age when booking. ::: Since October 2010, maximum bedroom capacity is not limited to two adults ::: Also, large casas are not limited to renting only two bedrooms per night. ::: At the end of the casa name, the V signals the casa was suggested by travelers or owners but not verified by the website staff. If you try it and like it, write us about it. ::: Unless otherwise mentioned, the average room rates and service prices are : 20-25cuc per bedroom per night [up to 40+ for 4 in a room]; breakfasts 3-5cuc, dinners 7-10cuc. ::: Any casa particular anywhere in Cuba must have a hot water shower, otherwise it cannot have a permit to rent ::: Please share your Complaints, comments & suggestions webmaster [@]cubacasas.net

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• From Canada and the USA : 011 53 (add phone # preceded by La Habana's area code, 7) • From Europe, Great Britain, Scandinavia and Mexico : 00 53 (add phone # preceded by the La Habana's area code, 7) HOW TO DIAL A CUBAN PHONE NUMBER HERE ••• CELL PHONE NUMBERS on our town lists and casa pages are preceded by 05 for calls originating Havana; from anywhere else in Cuba, dial 01 + the 8 digits of the cell.

Click on logo to open a message addressed to that casa in your email application; or right-click to copy address. Spanish vocabulary here.
Click photos to see each casa's page and description. Locate casas by zone from map.
See all casas in sequence.
See all casas in sequence.
Move to next casa by clicking this logo.
Upstairs, choice of three bedrooms, one on roof
Calle Brazil 115 (Teniente Rey), e/ Cuba y San Ignacio, only steps from Plaza Vieja in Zone 3
Tel. (7) 862-6287 or (7)

Four modern a/c bedrooms in upstairs colonial
Calle Obrapia 405 up one floor, entre Aguacate y Compostela, one block south of pedestrian Obispo in Zone 5. Tél. (7) 862-8285


Upstairs colonial, choice of three ac bedrooms
Calle Villegas 443 (2nd floor), e/Teniente Rey (Brasil) y Muralla, steps from Plaza del Cristo. in Zone 5 Tél. (7) 867-5026 Cell 52 90 11 06

Ground floor colonial, choice of 3 bedrooms
Calle Luz 115, e/ San Ignacio e Inquisidor, three blocks from Plaza Vieja in Zone 4 Tel. (7) 862-3303

Two floors up, four ac bedrooms, ensuites
Calle Cristo 14 e/Teniente Rey (Brasil) y Muralla, steps from Plaza del Cristo in Zone 5 Cell 52 45 84 98

Colonial, four ac bedrooms, ensuites, patio
Calle Monserrate 483, e/ Teniente Rey (Brasil) y Muralla, steps from Capitolio in Zone 5
Tel. (7) 861-0458 Cel. 53 41 06 22


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Upstairs modern 10 a/c bedrooms, rooftop dining
Calle Habana 209, e/Empedrado y Tejadillo, three blocks from Museo de la Revolucion, steps from little-known Parque San Juan de Dios in Zone 2 Tel. (7) 861-0253 cell 5
2 91 82 02

Upstairs, two ac br's, ensuites
Calle Teniente Rey (Brasil) #361 e/ Aguacate y Villegas behind Convento Santa Teresa in Zone 5 Tel. (7) 867-9329

Upstairs two-br's, ensuites, next to Chez Nous
Calle Brazil (Teniente Rey) 115, e/Cuba y San Ignacio, steps from Plaza Vieja in Zone 3 Tel. (7) 862-0948

True 1717 colonial - four ground floor ac br's
Calle Amargura 255, e/Habana y Compostela,
near Plaza del Cristo in Zone 5 Tél. (7) 863-0622

Modern colonial upstairs with two ac bedrooms
Calle Habana 106, e/Cuarteles y Chacon, two blocks from Museo de la Revolucion in Zone 1 Tel. (7) 866-2607 cell 52 64 76 73

Upstairs 3-br's, ensuites, roof terrace and bar
Calle San Ignacio 654, e/ Jesus Maria y Merced one block from Plazuela de Paula in Zone 4 Tel. (7) 863-1279 cell 52 70 72 15

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Three ac one-bedroom aparts w/kitchenette
Calle O'Reilly 505 (apart. 32 for check-in), e/ Bernanza y Villegas, near Floridita in Zone 6 Tel. (7) 867-1497, cell 52 68 66 48


Lovely one-bedroom apart with kitchen and living
Calle Lamparilla 420 Apto 27 (5th floor, with elevator), entre Bernaza y Villegas, steps from Floridita and 4 blocks from Capitolio in Zone 6
Tel. (7) 862-8285

CUBA 611
One building, five owners, 12 bedrooms
Calle Cuba 611, apts. # 1, 2, 4, 5 and roof, e/ Luz y Santa Clara, facing Convento Santa Clara, two blocks from Plaza Vieja in Zone 3

CALLE CUBA (GERARDO) © sogestour OLGA LOPEZ HERNANDEZ © sogestour 53
Gerardo Olga Noemis Manolo Casa Cuba

Compact, modern, four a/c bedrooms, ensuites
Calle Merced No. 14, e/Oficios y San Ignacio, two blocks from the bay near Plazuela de Paula and Almacenes de San Jose handicraft & art market in Zone 4
Tél. (7) 860-3987

Modest small colonial with choice of 2 bedrooms
Calle Peña Pobre 60, upstairs, e/Habana y Aguilar, very close to Malecon in Zone 1 Tél. (7) 864-2214

Up two floors, two basic br's, shared bathroom
Calle Habana 209 upstairs, e/ Tejadillo y Empedrado, two blocks from Parque San Juan de Dios and same from Museo de la Revolucion in Zone 1
Tel. (7) 867-3994 cell 52 66 42 99


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Upstairs two-bedroom colonial, ensuites
Calle Cristo 16 primer piso, e/Teniente Rey (Brasil) y Muralla, Plaza del Cristo del Buen Viaje in Zone 5 Tél. (7) 861-1378 cell 52 73 94 66

5 bedrooms, 4 baths, 3 terraces, 2 salons, 3 floors
Calle Villegas 210, e/Obispo y Obrapia, three blocks from Parque Central in Zone 5
. Tél. (7) 862-3548 cell 52 81 17 86


Upstairs, two aircon bedrooms, ensuites
Calle Obrapia 460, apto. 5, e/Villegas y Aguacate, four blocks from the Capitolio in Zone 5
. Tél. (7) 861-0915

Upstairs colonial three aircon bedrooms, ensuites
Calle Muralla 455, e/Villegas y Bernaza, one block from Plaza del Cristo del Buen Viaje in Zone 5 Tél. (7) 860-2707

Upstairs colonial, two aircon bedrooms, ensuites
Calle Luz 109 (apto 5), e/Inquisidor y San Ignacio, two blocks from the Port in Zone 4
. Tel. (7) 867-2039

Quad & double bedrooms, ensuites + dormitory
Calle Cuba 610, entre Sol y Luz, right by the convent & museum and two blocks from Plaza Vieja in Zone 3 Tel. (7) 861-3335


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Mini-hotel run by nuns; quads & doubles, ensuites
Calle Oficios # 204, entre Teniente Rey y Muralla between the port and Plaza Vieja. Located in Zone 3 Tel. (7) 866-4315


Two ac bedrooms each with ensuite; up one floor
Calle Refugio 104, entre Morro y Prado, 100 m from Museo de la Revolucion; 50 meters from Prado in la Zone 1. Tel (7) 864-3923 cell 53 32 14 17

One ac bedroom, ensuite + one indep. apartment
Calle Habana n° 906 altos (upstairs), e/ Leonor Pérez y Merced, between the Iglesia de la Merced and the natal house of José Marti in Zone 4 . Tél. (7) 860-1788 cell 52 41 08 02

Two dorms, 6 bunks, 10cuc, shared bath; rooftop.
Calle Damas n° 858 altos (upstairs), e/ Merced y Paula Leonor Perez, near the main train station and artesans market in the San Isidro barrio in Zone 4 . Tél. 58 18 39 89 (Rayko)

One 6-bunk bedroom, 8cuc pp incl. breakfast + one br for 3; two baths
Calle Damas n° 709 altos (upstairs), e/ Luz y Acosta, 5 blocks from Plaza Vieja and 5 blocks from central train station and 10 mins. from Capitolio in Zone 4 . Cel. 58 67 55 08

Hostel Mango

Up, two ac br's, ensuites or full apartment
Calle Obispo 518 altos (upstairs), apto 1, e/ Bernaza y Villegas, near the Floridita in Zone 5 . Cel 52 68 09 05

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Footprint (FH), GéoGuide (GG), Insight/Gallimard (IG), Le Routard (LR), Lonely Planet (LP), Michelin (MC), Moon (MH), National Geographic Traveler (NG), Petit Futé (PF), Rough Guides (RG)
:::FH : Federico Llanes, Greenhouse, Chez Nous, Yamelis Elizalde ::: GG : Chez Nous, Los Balcones, WendChris, Jesus y Maria, Niñita, Pablo Morales Barrios, Casa Saul ::: IG : Maritza, Humberto, Yamelis, Federico Llanes, Fefita y Luis ::: LP : Greenhouse, Calle Habana, El Encinar, Jesus y Maria, Penthouse Plaza Vieja, Pepe y Rafaela ::: LR : GDos Hermanas, Rolando y Marisol, Casa Habana, Luis Domec & Luisa, Luis Batista Betancourt, Chez Nous, Marta y Israel, Humberto Acosta, Cristo Colonail (Belkis y Jeiver), Pablo y Lidia, Maria Elena, Marta y Yucini, Ramon y Maritza, Olga Lopez Hernandez, Calle Cuba Gerardo, Felipe y Yessica, Nancy Perez, Yanin y Nelson, Dumenigo y Ruiz ::: MC : Dos Hermanas, Humberto, Cristo Colonial, Colonial Habana, Nancy, Nelson, Marivelas, Greenhouse, Colonial Azul, El Encinar, Ana y Surama ::: MH : Hostal del Angel, Carlos Inn, Elizabeth y Saul, Casa Raquel, Chez Nous ::: NG : Hostal del Angel ::: PF : Olga Lopez Hernandez, ::: RG : Caracol, Fefita y Luis, Martha y Yusimi, Pablo y Lidia, Vitrales, Chez Nous, Greenhouse, Havana Casablanca 09.02.18

244 km / 151 miles

10 km / 6 mi.

25 km / 15 mi.

102 km / 63 mi.

65 km / 40 mi.

335 km / 208 mi.

140 km / 87 mi.

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Es Cuba is a poignant and passionate travel memoir
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Es Cuba is a poignant and passionate travel memoir about falling in love with a country and with one of its compañeros.

A seasoned traveler and a discerning observer, Aschkenas never strays from her acute awareness that there is no way to separate her foreignness (intensified by U.S.-Cuba relations) from the complex mix of emotions—devotion and rejection, enrapture and apprehension—that she develops toward the country and its people.