www.cubacasas.net •|• La Habana • Habana Centro

The changing face of inner-city Havana
In 1996, the community of Cayo Hueso ("Centro" for Habaneros) began an extensive project to improve housing and infrastructure in its neighbourhood.

Dubbed the "Cayo Hueso Intervention" it quickly became a model in Cuba for fighting urban decay and ill-health. Today it’s used almost as a catch-phrase.

"Fidel Castro even talks about doing a ‘Cayo Hueso Intervention’ in other communities around Cuba," says Dr Annalee Yassi, who led the University of Manitoba contingent. More on Canada's IDRC.CA page here

SEE.KNOW.DO
• Callejon de Hamel, a short stretch of pedestrian street with painted walls; on Sunday afternoons (only) from 12 to 15h30 : between San Lazaro and Concordia and between Aramburu and Espada;
• Capitolio/Academia de Sciencias/Galeria/Café
• Centro Cultural de España
• Galeria Galiano
• Museo de la Revolución
• Museo Nacional Palacio de Bellas Artes
• Palacio de Los Matrimonios
• Palacio Velasco.

HABANA CENTRO RESTAURANTS
Biki, vegetarian, (coton tablecloth, varied menu, best value in moneda nacional), corner Lazaro y Calzada; Los Nardos, facing Capitolio (adopted by all, long line at door, wood paneling, candles, cheap); Paco Mer, corner Infanta and Neptuno (best bistec sandwiches); Portal del Malecon, (good burgers, drive-by jalopies); Prado y Neptuno, Prado, corner Neptuno (excellent pizzas, chic shock & chicas); Sevilla Hotel, terrace on 9th floor over Parque Central, piano, superb cuisine and views ... in Barrio Chino, Chinatown : La Flor de Loto, Mi Chin Tan (great food, cheap, calle Manrique, e/Dragones y Sanja), Song Sai Li, Tien-Tan

Cruzando Lealtad © sogestour

Cruzando Lealtad © sogestour

LARGE CENTRO MAP WITH CASAS — Here

BEST IN TOWN, LOCAL MUSIC SPOTS — Here

Buena Vista Social Club's first album was recorded here, Egrem Studios, calle San Miguel corner Campanario. The studio itself has moved to Playa but there's still memories and the Bar de los Estudios de Grabación Areíto © sogestour

Callejon de Hamel (an alleyway covered with brightly coloured murals, sculptures celebrating Havana’s AfroCuban culture) is packed all day on Sundays with people from all over a-dancin' to the rumba music a-playin'. It's called Peña de la Rumba. The short block is located between San Lazaro and Concordia and between Aramburu and Espada © sogestour

Teatro America arguably Cuba's best music showplace — definitely the most beautiful. Site of the Casa de la Musica Habana & Piano Bar Habaneciendo Calle Galiano, e/Concordia y Neptuno © andrew moore

CULTURE - CENTRO
Centro Cultural Los Sitios (Calle Sitios No. 11 e/ Angeles y Rayo) • Centro Provincial del Libro y La Literatura (CalleZanja No.732 esq. Hospital) • Conservatorio Amadeo Roldán (Calle Rastro No.1 esq. Belascoaín) • Casa de Cultura Municipal Joseíto Fernández (Ave. Salvador Allende No.720 esq. Castillejo)

Cine Mégano (Industria No 416 ) • Cine Águila de Oro (Rayo No 108) • Cine Finlay (Zanja 376) • Cine Bayamo (Padre Valera No 352) • Cine Astral (Calzada de Infanta No 501) • Cine Cinecito (San Rafael No 68) • Cine Favorito (Padre Valera No 813) • Cine Pionero (San Lázaro No 1064) • Cine Infanta (Calzada de Infanta No 353)

Galería Municipal (San Lazaro No. 661 e/ Gervasio y Belascoain) • Galería de Arte Galiano (Calle Galiano No. 258 esq. A Concordia) • Librería La Iliada Centro Cultural Habana (Calle San Rafael 256 e/ Águiar y Galiano) • Libreria Kelly used books (Neptuno 607, e/Gervasio y Escobar)

Museo Fragua Martiana (Calle Principe 108 esq.Hospital) • Museo Lezama Lima (Calle Trocadero 162 e/Consulado e Industria) • Museo Joseíto Fernández (Calle Gervasio 258 e/Estrella y Maloja) • Museo Napoleónico (Calle San Miguel No.1159) • Proyecto Concha Mocoyu (La California) (Calle Crespo e/ San Lazaro y Colón) • Teatro America (Galiano No.253 esq. Concordia) • Teatro Fausto (corner Prado y Colón) • Taller de Arte (San Lázaro No. 663 e/ Gervasio y Belascoain)

**CENTRO'S NIGHTLY MUSICAL & DANCE TREASURES**

• Casa de la Musica Habana & Piano Bar Habaneciendo in the extraordinary Teatro America, art deco, four bars, one upstairs, shows, absolute must. Calle Galiano, e/Concordia y Neptuno. Tel. (7) 860-8296 (7) 862-4165. Show schedule here

• Casa de la Cultura-Centro, various shows at night, Salvador Allende 720, e/Soledad y Castillejo;

• Casa de la Trova-Centro, trova on stage, Fridays at 18h a must. San Lazaro 661, e/Belascoain y Gervasio;

• Caseron del Tango, museum dedicated to tango (popular here in 30's and 40's,) founded by Edmundo Daubal, friend of Carlos Gardel, in 1980. Dancing with orchestra, mon 17h-20h. Calle Neptuno 305, e/ Aguila y Galiano; in Vieja, there is a same caseron located at Calle Jústiz 21, entre Baratillo y Oficios

• Peña de la Yoya, Fridays (only) 22h00-01h00 : Yoya's sister Lucie and her filin group play ballads : calle San Lazaro 667, e/Belascoain y Gervasio.

DISCOS FOR CHICOS N' CHICAS
• Chang Disco, in Chinatown (Barrio Chino) - to dance and cruise. No shows here, other than chicas lined up at the door wanting to get in and make you sweat on the dance floor... Calle San Nicolás 517, entre Dragones y Zanja • Discoteca Ribera Azul, in Hotel Deauville calle Galiano y Malecón • Disco Oasis Unión Árabe in Union Arabe building. Paseo del Prado, corner Colón

THE FACADES OF THE MALECON
At the start of the millenium after the old city along the port had almost been completely renovated, Havana's Historiador Eusebio Leal and his team started work on the Malecon, the long four-lane noisy and polluted boulevard and its wide seaside walk which extends from the Vieja to Miramar along the whole of Habana Centro. Urgently needed was to support falling facades which were crumbling : some were in such dire state, they had to come down.

But for lack of originality and financial means some large "holes" were left gaping and were at first replaced by banal cafeterias (snack bars) without architectural interest.

Then, at the Havana Bienal of 2003, a group of artists by Havana architect Vilma Bartolomé Arencibia came up with ideas to patch up five of the most obvious gaps. Those intersections were eventually the scene of a "modern vs colonial" confrontation which five architects challenged. At least two have already risen from the brainstorm.

Corner Aguila : Roberto Fabelo has imagined Mar Adentro, a fish and seafood restaurant.

Corner Belascoaín : Esterio Segura suggested a fast-food airplane, El Sueño.

Corner Campanario : Alfredo Sosabravo decorated La Algarabía serving ice cream and pastries.

Corner Gervasio : Arturo Montoto devised a vegetarian restaurant, El Desconcierto.

Corner Lealtad : Ángel Ramírez shaped Lava Día to serve tapas à la española and montaditos.

PALADARES in CENTRO
La Guarida, Best cuisine in Cuba ? Made famous through Cuba's most celebrated movie, Fresa y Chocolate. Calle Concordia 318, e/Gervasio y Escobar Our photos here.

EVENINGS, DANCING, SHOWS in CENTRO
Delirio Hanabero (upstairs) and Café Cantante Mi Habana at Teatro Nacional, groups on evenings, best over weekends. Matinées of salsa and son. Paseo, corner 39; Centro Andaluz, flamenco shows, weekends 21h and 22h. Lessons, tue, thu, 9h-11h. Paseo de Marti 104, e/Genios y Refugio; Chang Disco, where lots of chicas hustle... from 22h30 to 3h, fri-sun, calle San Nicolas 517, e/Dragones y Zanja in barrio Chino; Disco Oasis of the Union Arabe, typically Cubano. Paseo del Prado, corner Colon; La Madriguera, youth wing of UNEAC. Concerts, exhibits for and by the up and comers. On Thursday, 20h-24h, La Rockoteca. Look for them in the park where mucho musicians rehearse during the day, a must-see : Quinta de los Molinos, e/Infanta y Salvador Allende; Las Vegas, dancing, popular with young afro-Cubans, 23h. Calzada de Infanta, corner 25; Ribera Azul Disco in Hotel Deauville, shows at 23h on weekends, Calle Galiano, e/ San Lazaro y Malecon.

CENTRO CASAS RECOMMENDED
V = refered by owners and travellers. Check them out in persona. Habana Centro has more than 650 licensed casas particulares. Children 16 and under may share parents' bedroom at no charge only if there is an additional bed available. Mention the age of your children when making the reservation. Comments and casa suggestions webmaster @cubacasas.net

BOOK BY PHONE
• From Canada and the USA : 011 53 (add phone # preceded by La Habana's area code, 7).

• From Europe, Great Britain, Scandinavia and Mexico : 00 53 (add phone # preceded by the La Habana's area code, 7).

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DR. ERNESTO GARCIA y VICTORIA
Two bedrooms, each with a private bathroom
Lealtad 159, entre Animas y Virtudes, steps from the Malecon, 10-blocks from Parque Central & Capitolio Locate on this mapa. Tel. (7) 861-2753 or (7) 891-7538