If there had been environmentalists in 1870, they would surely have protested against the construction of the Vedado (the "forbidden") area, then a huge nature lot of mahogany, oak and cedar trees meant to form a barrier against attacks from pirates such as the French Jacques de Sores.

But no one wanted this vast land that sold for 10 cents a square yard. Eventually, Francisco de Frías y Jacott, Earl of Pozos Dulces (1809-1877) was the first to hire free workers (not slaves) to build up that unused land - he was honored with an unknown tiny park on Linea.

In 1901, an American "nutcase" built the first bungalow at number 504 of calle 9. Then other fatcats came to erect palaces; some photos.

In the late 40's, the forest cover had turned into a vast grazing for goats crossed by a railway line and slowly but surely concrete columns formed the first Cuban skyscrapers [seen on the horizon in the photo at top] enthroned in an orgy of modernism and extending well beyond the first two blocks of the new middle-class neighborhood : Calzada and Diecisiete (the 17th).

The rest is history.

TOP 10 MUST SEE
• Established in 1871, Cementerio (Necropolis) Colon spreads over 56 hectares (140 acres) contains 500 tombs, chapels, vaults and family plots. The Habaneros wanting to make a wish come to pray at the grave of Amelia Milagrosa (Amelia the Miraculous). Corner Zapata and 12. Photos here.
• Museo de Artes Decorativas, with Eastern European art from the sixteenth to the twentieth century. Absolutely sublime, unparalleled in taste. (The lady was filthy rich !) Calle 17, corner of E.
• Galeria Haydee Santamaria, more than 6000 pieces of sculptures, paintings, prints, photographs and folk art. Calle G, between Quinta y 3ra.
• Casa de la Amistad, fabulous building with bar, cafe, boutique, terrace, restaurant, musical evenings. Paseo 406, between 17 and 19.
• Casa de ICAP (Cuban Institute for Friendship among Peoples), another nice building with bar, cafe, boutique, terrace, restaurant, musical evenings. Calle 17, e / H y Y
• Museo Napoleonico re-opened in 2011, the collection of "Sugar Baron" Julio Lobo. Calle San Miguel, corner Ronda.
• Plaza de la Revolucion its tower, its museum, its vistas and its two larger-than-life revolutionaries.
• The Universidad de la Habana and its calm campus.
• Hotel Nacional : its lobby and its neighborhood turistica (Coppelia, Habana Libre, Yara cinema).
• The area of the intersection of Calles 23 y 12 with the Cinemateca, small restaurants, the arts center, galleries and cinemas.

What's On » LA JIRIBILLA « Events, Shows
MAPS
Vedado & Casas	Parks, Streets
Around 23 and L	Plaza Revolucion Casas
Culture & Casas	Central area Old B&W

PHOTOS

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