CubaCasas La Habana Logo
"Beautiful, ruined, and sexiest place on this earth."

A work of Infinite Love - Banner over calle San Lazaro in front of the Universidad, February 2010 © sogestour
A work of Infinite Love over San Lazaro in front of the Universidad, February 2010 © sogestour
CASA PHONE NUMBERS HERE
HAVA QUESTION ? HavanaTimes Here
WHERE RU ? Coppelia's where ICUHere
Carpe Diem expressed by this lovely bunch of jovenes
Carpe Diem expressed by this lovely bunch of jovenes riding on a Centro street © unk, havanatimes.org 5th annual photo contest

FOR THE GOOD — "Your Samsung Galaxy not receiving messages? Need your bikini line waxed? Car need a wash? Maybe your dog does. Or perhaps you’re too uncertain or mono-lingual to make that casa reservation in Santiago de Cuba? No problem: in the “new” Havana someone will do it for you – for a fee of course.

"Today, you can get your iPhone unlocked, your navel pierced, Botox injections and many more services we never dreamed of a decade ago. " Madame Gorry knows best — Here
CA$H — List of 50 ATM's (Automated Teller Machines) cash machines in La Habana — Here
MAP — From the Yara Ciné to the Bacardi
Habana Centro + Vedado to Vieja —
Wide
MAP — West to East along coast — Here
THE WHOLE CAPITAL IN A SNAP
Greater Habana 30 km x 35 km — Wide
10 THINGS TO DO DOWNTOWN
As suggested by Lonely Planet readersHere
1000's of HAVANA PHOTOS Panoramio — Here
NEW CUBAN ECONOMY - Miami Herald 14.12.14
RENTAL CARS BUS FLIGHTS TRAINS
See "Touring Cuba" Menu above or here.
CELLS : BUY ONE OR SET ONE FREE
At Etecsa (phone company) offices across Cuba, one may rent from Cubacel 9cuc/day Look here
Same office for celular phone rentals or purchase (+parts); a cellular phone line costs 40cuc (30cuc + 10cuc usage) and can only be registered to a Cuban; use it while you're doin' the Cuban thang, leave it with the friend and recharge it from abroad — sometimes for 45% off ("Doble Saldo") — a few times per year and make sure you really load it for when you come back. Cell SMS use : 1cuc per message to an overseas or North American country; 30 centavos per call minute within Cuba.

Since the
cuenta propria law which allows any Cuban to make money on his/her own [180 types of jobs are allowed], there are hundreds of young Cubans opening cell phone shops : able and honest kids doing what they love and helping people along the way. Just ask around (or just look around to avoid having to pay more because you come through an intermediary).

YOGA INSTRUCTORS in HAVANA Here.
E-MAIL, WEB BROWSING
Get your messages from any server (gmail, hotmail, yahoo, etc) in most hotels, many Internet offices — now 200 hundred NAUTA locations in Etecsa (phone company) offices across Cuba. Nauta Internet debit cards ($4,50/hour) are usable in other locations on the island; in most hotels, different other providers require the use of another type of user & password scratch cards which are not compatible to Etecsa's.

Some connected casa owners
may let you use their computer to get your messages with limited bandwidth : most owners can only get email, as they have limited-bandwith and time.

LOAD THE TABLET, HESPETH !
As there is barely no wi-fi spots anywhere, no sense bringing an iPad for web or mail : download books and magazines and movies. BUT FOR WEB REFERENCES ABOUT CUBA, best is to download whole or partial content of your favourite web sites [such as cubacasas.net ; ] by using an app like Offline Pages.
GO WEST : HILLS, VALLEYS & CAYOS
Road map to Soroa, Las Terrazas, Cayo Jutias, Cayo Levisa, Cabo San Antonio, Maria La Gorda — Here
GO EAST, TO THE BEACHES
The famous beaches at Playas del Este await where most Habaneros flock in summer— Here in Guanabo
GO ANYWHERE
Island-wide bus skeds (horariodebuses.com/) — The renovated Viazul web site here.
UNDERSTAND CUBA IN 480 SECONDS
Video about backyard food growing, Havana-Style in this "BEAUTIFUL, RUINED AND SEXIEST PLACE ON THIS EARTH" - the BBC's Monty Don Here

YOUR GROCER IS A PUSHER*

*ie, the human brain registers sugar and cocaine on the same brain cells + 80% of packaged food sold in North American grocery stores contains sugar + the industry has coined 50 new names in order to hide the amount of sugar in the contents without having to use the word "sugar".

SEE VIDEO PREVIEW - SUGAR = COCAINE
Fidel es Fidel, the exhibit at Memorial José Marti | No need to run, check out our list of WHAT'S ON Havana web pages. Look up this page and right.

MARIELA CASTRO IN RED LIGHT
Visiting Amsterdam's Red Light District as director of CENESEX, Fidel's niece talks about prostitution on the Havana Malecon and says that although the Dutch experience is not without fault, it has improved sex workers' rights © Radio Netherlands Worldwide — YouTube here. In Spanish.

havana-nostalgia-is-a-dangerous-business
GAY TOUR GUIDE + SPOTS
English-speaking Cuban University student offers tours : "This is not an escort service (...) my parents would kill me."Yunior's page here.
Gay spots listed in What's On - May 2014 [PDF Here]
CANADIAN CULTURE FAQ
How to organize an art event, make a donation, an internship or studies. Check it out here, eh ?
URBAN FARMING EXPERTISE
Who can I contact about urban farming in Cuba ? Answer on this havanatimes.org column here
HAVANA IN THE 30'S ?
You wasn't even born ! Check this video.
NICE BLOG & PHOTOS
About eating out in Havana - London Foodie
CUBA SURVIVED PEAK OIL
A revealing 53-minute video about the involuntary (Russia dumped Cuba) eco agriculture advances of Cuba. " Cubans all work with a common goal, collectively making strategic decisions. "
300,000 CUENTAPROPISTAS NYT
GIVE ME OLD-FASHIONED ANY DAYbeisbol or pelota is still played the old-fashioned way
In Cuba, the game of baseball (beisbol or pelota) is still played the old-fashioned way — and that is better, according to aficionado Peter Bjarkman — Wall Street Journal video. Click photo for video. See Bjarkman's web site > here < © wall street journal

2014-2015 BASEBALL SCHEDULE HERE
SANTERIA REVEALED by Lydia Bell
WORLD'S ODDEST MARKET in FT
CITY BIKE TOUR 3 hours, 29CUC HERE
NOT A MARKET-BASED ECONOMY HERE
ONE MARIELA, TWO QUOTES HERE
Niece of Fidel, Mariela is the daughter of Raul and Sierra Maestra combatiente Vilma Espin, she is GM of Cenesex — the sex information institution; site. "Her accomplishments are nothing short of remarkable."
Another point of view — from Cuban gays here. A Cuban first, a Law protecting rights of LBGT was adopted on December 23, 2013. Link.

One million music and peace aficionados
1,000,000 PEACE & MUSIC LOVERS
overflowed the Plaza de la Revolucion for the Paz sin Fronteras concert on September 21 2009 : Silvio Rodríguez and Los Van Van, Porto Rican merengue star Olga Tañon, Spanish crooner Miguel Bosé, New York latin-funk group Yerba Buena and hip-hop trio Orishas among others. Video excerpt on click.

MAIN AREAS
Habana Vieja (Plaza de Armas, Plaza Vieja, Plaza San Francisco), Centro Habana (Barrio Chino, Capitolio, Malecon, Prado), Vedado (Cementerio de Colon, La Rampa, Malecon, Nuevo Vedado, Plaza de la Revolución) and west, beyond the Almendares river Miramar/Playa (Convention Centre, Marina Hemingway, Atabey, Barlovento, Bélen, Buenavista, Cubanacán, Flores, Kohly, Nautico, Siboney).

OTHER MUNICIPIOS & REPARTOS
East of town, across the bay : Regla, Casablanca, Cojímar, Guanabacoa, Habana del Este (Alamar, Antonio Guiteras, Celimar, Ciudad Panamericano, Tarará) ; Further east : Playas del Este (Boca Ciega, El Megano, Guanabo, Santa Maria del Mar, Santa Maria Loma) ; West, across the Almendares river : Marianao (Ciudad Libertad, La Paz, Pogolotti, Zamora) ; South : Parque Lenin (Arroyo Naranjo, Boyeros, Calabazar, El Globo, Fontanar, and José Marti airport in Rancho Boyeros) including the Botanical Gardens (Jardin Botanico Celia Sanchez Manduley), neighbouring Parque Lenin as well as Parque Zoologico and Expo Cuba (Trade Fairgrounds) See our page here.

DISTANCIAS — HAVANA IS BEEG
Aeropuerto José Martí, 15 km
Alamar, 15

Artemisa, 60 Road map
Cojimar, 10 — Our section here
Las Terrazas, 40 Road map — Our page here
Mariel, 45 Road map
Playa Baracoa, 27 — Our section here
Playas del Este, Guanabo, 25 — Our page here
San Antonio de Los Baños, 35
Santa Maria del Rosario, 19
Soroa, 65 Road map — Our page here
Surgidero de Batabanó, 56 (ferry to Isla de la Juventud, Isle of Youth, Isle of Pines - Nueva Gerona) Island road map — Our page here



Dancing to the beat of a world on the edge. Things Cuban on our tumblr blog, como no ! © sogestour

{ FLIGHT ARRIVALS TODAY }
WHAT'S ON ::: WHEN ::: LINKS
::: Artists' Agenda - Havana Cultura > Here
::: Recording artists on stage > Egrem
::: Musicians recording in Havana > youtube
::: Cultural events in the capital > La Jiribilla
::: Stage & other escenas > Cuba Escena
::: Movies Popular + Main venues > Cartelera
::: Conventions & Exhibitions > cuba.cu
::: Night Clubs - 95 Spots > CubadeNoche
::: What's On from cuba-absolutely > Here
::: Plastic Arts National Council > Here
::: Literature Portal - Cuba Literaria > Here
::: Writers and Artists' Union > UNEAC
::: What's On at the UNEAC Casa in Vedado
::: Art and culture worldwide > CubanArtNews

RECYCLED AND ORGANIC
Urban farming plots are part of the Habana lifestyle
Sustainable farming model in a gas-driven world : "the food is diverse and completely sustainable. Everything is recycled and organic". Click photo for pulitzercenter.org article © SteveYYZ, photobucket

IT AIN'T GONNA HAPPEN OVERNIGHT

Raul Castro speaking to the Asamblea Nacional del Poder Popular on December 20 2014

THIS MAY HAPPEN SOONER

Pentagon sent special ops soldiers to 133 countries in 2014
LET IT BE, COMO NO
let it be •|• Linda cocotaxista © sogestour
let it be [words of peace made famous by Paul McCartney — the John Lennon park is a few blocks down the same street, calle 23], one of many street art signatures and graffiti which have sprouted in Fall 2013, a Havana Times article by Isbel Diaz Torres | Linda cocotaxi driver © sogestour

ICONIC : MALECON & NACIONAL
El Malecon © Maxime Felder, wikimedia commons •|• Hotel Nacional in Vedado © sogestour
El Malecon : the long and winding seaside boulevard runs from the port in Habana Vieja all along Centro and Vedado and ends at the Almendares river where a tunnel crosses to Miramar and Playa burroughs (with the embassies and the Convention Centre) © Maxime Felder, wikimedia commons | The Nacional : was built and run by Meyer Lansky and the US mafia, supported by Hollywood and yet-to-be President Richard Nixon; today, it's Havana's landmark hotel © sogestour

ANGELES y ARTISTAS OVER HAVANA
Los angeles over Habana are watching over Parque Central from atop the Gran Teatro © sogestour ::: Painter's spots on the Prado © sogestour
Los angeles over La Habana are watching Parque Central below from above the Gran Teatro © sogestour | Painters' Prado where artists exhibit and sell their art and where impromptu tango is danced : join in !© sogestour

AMUSEMENT PARK? LOOK FOR LENIN
Cuba — world’s oddest property market © financial times

WE ARE HAPPY HERE
We're happy here, contrary to what negationists would have you believe.
« Aqui Somos Felices », we're happy here contrary to what negationistas, anticubanistas, bullshit bloggers or just plain losers would have you believe. The U.S. government spends gazillions of dollars to boost the anti-Cuba "pro-wallstreet-walmart", "poison-for-profit", "exploitative corruption" movement. Can you still think for yourself — as an individual — in a rather democratic and highly socialist state [of mind] ? photo © unk

"SHOT" IN HAVANA
Scene from Chico and Rita — "shot" entirely in Havana
Scene from Chico and Rita, by Oscar-winning director Fernando Trueba and designer Javier Mariscal. The Oscar-nominated feature length animation was "shot" partly (and shown in its entirety) in Havana, as well as New York, Las Vegas, Hollywood and Paris in the late 1940s and early '50s. An homage to Bebo Valdes (1918-2013), father of musician Chucho Valdés.

BYOM
Bocaditos en La Habana — some tourists call them ciabatta at home
Bocaditos en La Habana — some tourists call them ciabatta at home, a yummy combo of ham & cheese toasted just right - byom : bring your own mostaza © Havana Times


CLOSE BUT NO CIGAR
The old Asemblea Nacional located in the Capitolio is a sight to behold
The old Asemblea Nacional located in the Capitolio is a sight to behold, part of a walking tour of the newly-renovated building near Parque Central, the Partagas cigar factory and Habana Vieja and Habana Centro casas particulares. The 650 elected members nowadays convene in a modern building in Plaza de la Revolucion © sogestour


100 BOTTLES ON THE WALL
That would be the title of author Ena Lucia Portela's highly appreciated novel of life growing up in Havana from the 50's to the 80's. Drawing by John Dew who authors a review of Ena Lucia's work on cubaabsolutely here.


GUAGUA'ING AROUND • SEE FULL MAP
Bus travel in Havana is generally a bitch
"I suggest taking at least one bus to eavesdrop and to take the pulse of the population of Habaneros quibble and kvetch." > Here is Havana


Wave Rider - on the Malecon © alper uke


Walking from Habana Vieja to Vedado, I cross the whole of Centro in the middle of the night and I don't feel any fright of being agressed — less than in any US town. Cuba is peaceful and its citizens respect each other. Amen. Photo © havanalifeproject


Get outta town : muchas departures every day, eh ?

HAVANA'S LARGE OPEN SPACES
Parque Lenin (645 hectares, amusement park Parque Mariposa, horse and rowboat rentals, lake, restaurants, rodeos) borders the Botanical Gardens (600 hectares, 4,000 species, 140,000 plants), the Zoological Park (500 hectares, 145,000 trees from 75 varieties) and Expo Cuba (fairgrounds on 48 hectares, 34 pavillons), Club de Golf de La Habana (18 holes (2 x 9), BBQ, restaurant, bar, swimming pool).

Parque Lenin is located 15 km south of the Plaza de la Revolucion : a 15-20cuc taxi ride; or take the 174 bus to Vibora and connect to the 88 guagua. Google Map here

HAVANA'S LARGE OPEN SPACES - Rodeo Drive
One of the American continent's largest city parks. — Map & Info Here
Sing like no one is listening. Love like you’ve never been hurt.
Dance like nobody’s watching, and live like it’s heaven on earth.
Malecon © Antonio Milena •[• Panorama : el Mar, el Malecon, el Nacional © unk
A warm night, the Malecon and lovely chicas ('girls' or young women in Spanish) from here and a broad © Antonio Milena •]• Panorama : el Mar, el Malecon, el Nacional © sogestour
MONEDA NACIONAL ::: PRIVATE TAXIS ::: PARTICULARES
"Get around in private taxis (almendron). 6,000 choferes in Havana have applied for the freelance license; 2,000 have been granted. For 10 pesos cubanos (about 0.40 USD), you can hail endearing jalopies (Pontiacs, Capone-era Dodges and other ‘Yank tanks’) between Playa and Vedado or Habana Vieja, out to Miramar or Marianao.

"Longer routes – from Habana Vieja out to the Playas del Este (Guanabo) beaches for example – will run double (0.80 USD). To grab one, just stick out your arm parallel to the ground and ask the driver if he’s going to where you need to be.

"It helps to be on the right thoroughfare : 23 or Línea in Vedado, San Lázaro or Neptuno in Centro Habana, Avenida 31 or 41 in Playa, Calle 51 in Marianao, or 3ra Avenida in Miramar. Now they can subcontract driving duties. Drivers are now young, restless, and reckless. I’m not the only one who lets these wild child choferes continue on their way, opting to wait for an older, more seasoned driver who cares at least for his car, if not his clients."
Trip Tips by Conner Gorry — Here is Havana
Trip Tips by
Conner Gorry — Here is Havana - Aqui

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Much hotter since the climate changes - as denied by "Drill, baby, drill" Stephen (Duh) Harper
Chico & Rita, la pelicula ::: Haga clic por el preview

Best documentary about La Habana as well as another work of Infinite Love ; ).
La habana es un artista : thoroughly modern, demarginalized yet dis-integrated movement of both young and old. An eclectic counter-culture on a higher state — the perfect alternative to the couch potato. Were it Danish, it would be called Christiania; German, it would be Berlin; NorteAmericano, Montréal.

SUNRISE & SUNSET

Click for Havana, Cuba Forecast

14-DAY WEATHER

Winner best Picture 2011 HavanaTimes.org contest

calling for freedom for the Cuban Five
The Cuban Five are back - Volvieron !

Discovering Havana's finest Art Deco pieces
Top Art Deco in town


webmaster[©]ubacasas.net

BURBS & BARRIOS

EL RINCON [San Lazaro Sanctuary restaured in 2014, 26 km SW. Map]

SAN FRANCISCO DE PAULA [Museo Hemingway, 13 km SE]

GUANABACOA [Museo, Jewish Cemetery, 6 km N]

SANTA MARIA DEL ROSARIO [Catedral de los Campos + Casa de la Cultura + Manuel Mendive mural, 9 km]

SAN ANTONIO DE LOS BAÑOS [Museo del Humor + Galeria Abela + Film & TV School EICTV "one of the best in the world" + Htl Las Yagrumas, 34 km]

PROVINCIAL CAPITALS
Artemisa, 60
Bayamo
, 754
Camaguey, 544
Ciego de Avila, 439
Cienfuegos, 244
Guantanamo, 946
Holguin, 749
Las Tunas, 673
Matanzas, 102
Pinar del Rio, 172
Sancti Spiritus, 364
San José de las Lajas, 35

Santa Clara
, 278
Santiago, 887
Trinidad, 335
Vinales, 205


Habana Radio in English
Habana Radio
in English




Club Pennant of the Habana Leones Beisbol Club, Campeones of the 1898-1899 season - Some 16 clubs will play 132 games in December 2014 - SCHEDULE HERE • This banner is sold by havana collect ibles dot com



Diana Fuentes

Art Deco in La Habana - La Jiribilla
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Lonely Planet's Top Dozen — Things To Do, See & Taste — out of a list of 412
shamelessly copy-pasted [albeit with direct links] from the LP web site here.

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OUR SUGGESTIONS IN THE FOUR MAIN HABANA AREAS


Click to open Habana Centro page


Click above to open section.
CARY y NILO (7) 862-7109
EL MIRADOR (7) 870-0937
SAMUEL y ALBERTO (7) 863-2075
LOURDES CERVANTES (7) 879-2243
ARAMIS (7) 879-8292
CASA ROSA (7) 860-3319
CASA RAYMOND (7) 863-5107
MARITZA (7) 878-7109
MERCEDES FERRER (7) 863-8122
BOTELLO (7) 867-9987
BLANCA MARGARITA (7) 866-7113
IHOVANNA y GERARDO (7) 863-6005
YOYI ALVAREZ (7) 863-5533
ROSA VILLAMIL ALLENDE (7) 873-6746
JORGE LEON (7) 870-7723
VIKY (7) 863-8923
ZEILA (7) 862-5492
MARIA ELENA (7) 863-0119
MARTA (7) 878-5038
M'ALOJA (7) 879-1784
ALINA y VICENTE (7) 863-6257
DANIEL y FINA (7) 870-0945
PA' MOCHILEROS (7) 878-1538

Click above to open Miramar.
CECILIA (7) 209-1137
GUEVARA ALBA (7) 205-6515
PRIETO y INGRID (7) 202-3097
MERCY (7) 203-6735
GUSTAVO GARCIA (7) 207-3646
DINORA (7) 209-5853
VICTOR (7) 207-3159
MARIA MARTHA (7) 202-7046
ELDA CRUZ MOREJON (7) 203-7052
CARMEN (7) 209-0155
BOOK BY PHONE
• From Canada and the USA : 011 53 followed by 7 (for La Habana) and phone number.

• From Europe, Great Britain, Scandinavia and Mexico : 00 53 followed by 7 (for La Habana) and phone number.

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Click above to open section.
ANGELA (7) 879-6851
MERCEDES (7) 832-5846
MIRTHA y JORGE (7) 878-2837
MADELEINE (7) 832-7480
LETICIA (7) 873-3470
CARMEN (7) 870-0664
ELVIRA (7) 830-4682
ELENA (7) 832-0495
LOS FAROLES (7) 883-7377
ELIA y MARY (7) 878-3604
GEORGINA (7) 878-3604
LUIS y MILY (7) 836-3954
CALLE 13 (7) 860-0848
CASAHABANA (7) 833-1438
ORALIA
(7) 878-4574
JORGE (7) 641-6673
FLORA (7)
833-9151
MARIBEL (7) 879-3119
ZOE Y VICTOR (7)
831-4092
VEDADO HOUSE (7) 830-1025

Click above to open section.
CHEZ NOUS (7) 862-6287
OBRAPIA (7) 862-8285
RAQUEL (7) 867-5026
RAMON y MARITZA (7) 862-3303
JUANITA y ERNESTO (7) 863-0382
ELIZABETH y SAUL (7) 866-2106
CASA HABANA (7) 861-0253
HABANA LOURDES (7) 867-9329
PABLO y LYDIA (7) 861-2111
LUIS BATISTA (7) 863-0622
CASA VITRALES (7) 866-2607
PABLO y NORMA (7) 863-1279
APARTAMENTOS O'REILLY (7) 867-1497
MARTA y TULA (7) 866-2022
LAMPARILLA (7) 862-8285
GERARDO (7) 862-7144
CALLE CUBA (7) 862-7144
OLGA (7) 867-4561
NOEMI (7) 862-3809
TERRAZA DE MANOLO (7) 867-2508
CASA CUBA (7) 864-1614
DOS LEONES (7) 860-3987
BARBARA (7) 864-2214
DALIA (7) 867-3994
BELKIS y JEIVER (7) 861-1378
MARIBEL
(7) 862-3548
DANIA (7) 861-0915
MARLY (7) 860-2707
SERGIO y MIRIAM (7) 860-8192
LEONEL (7) 860-0191
CONVENTO SANTA CLARA (7) 861-3335
CONVENTO SANTA BRIGIDA (7) 861-3335
CASA MAURA (7) 864-3923
PARAISO (7) 860-1788
OUR RECOMMENDATIONS
::: Make sure that in your first email or phone call you specify that you want to book a room in that particular casa and that you will reconfirm your booking on arrival in Cuba. Unless you only want a room in any house which may be of the same quality, not the specific casa you booked through photos on these websites ::: So as to not abandon expecting owners with empty rooms, reconfirm (or call ahead to cancel) your booking by phone as soon as you can after arriving in Cuba ::: Please write or phone a casa owner to cancel a booking. As late as it may seem, it allows them a chance to rebook. ::: Children under the age of 16 may share a bedroom with adults for free. Specify the child's age when booking. ::: Since October 2010, maximum bedroom capacity is not limited to two adults ::: Also, large casas are not limited to renting only two bedrooms per night. ::: At the end of the casa name, the V signals the casa was suggested by travelers or owners but not verified by the website staff. If you try it and like it, write us about it. ::: Unless otherwise mentioned, the average room rates and service prices are : 20-25cuc per bedroom per night [up to 40+ for 4 in a room]; breakfasts 3-5cuc, dinners 7-10cuc. ::: Any casa particular anywhere in Cuba must have a hot water shower, otherwise it cannot have a permit to rent ::: Please share your Complaints, comments & suggestions webmaster [@]cubacasas.net

244 km / 151 miles

10 km / 6 mi.

25 km / 15 mi.

102 km / 63 mi.

65 km / 40 mi.

335 km / 208 mi.

140 km / 87 mi.

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Content & photos © sogestour

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Updated 22.02.2015

Unsollicited and shamefully un-capitalistic propaganda — A Cubacasas.net suggestion
Unsollicited advertising — A Cubacasas.net suggestion
Unsollicited advertising — Conner Gorry moved to Cuba from the USA in 2002; she blogs from La Habana.



Es Cuba is a poignant and passionate travel memoir
Unsollicited advertising — A Cubacasas.net suggestion
Es Cuba is a poignant and passionate travel memoir about falling in love with a country and with one of its compañeros.

A seasoned traveler and a discerning observer, the author Lea Aschkenas never strays from her acute awareness that there is no way to separate her foreignness (intensified by U.S.-Cuba relations) from the complex mix of emotions — devotion and rejection, enrapture and apprehension — that she develops toward the country and its people.

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