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CIENAGA DE ZAPATA The municipality which bears this name covers a large territory on the southern end of the provincia de Matanzas and includes Parque Montemar (previously named Parque Nacional Ciénaga de Zapata (70,277 ha), Gran Parque natural de Montemar (70 km of caves), and the fauna reserves of Santo Tomas and La Salina, the latter with a marsh populated by some 165 species of migrant and endemic birds. Villages and towns include La Boca (with its crocodile farm), Guama, Playa Larga / El Caleton and of course, Playa Girón. Just north of the area, lies its access junction, a barrio built around the once busy sugar mill, Australia and across the national highway (Autopista nacional), the quiet and mosquito-less town of Jaguey Grande (pop. 57,000). The UNESCO Biosphere Reserve also bears the name Ciénaga de Zapata. It covers 628,171 hectares and its fauna includes 160 species of birds, 31 types of reptiles and 12 varieties of mammals. Lest we forget the bats which nightly swallow some of the (what must be) billions of mosquitoes buzzing over the swampland, one bordering the road between Australia and Playa Larga ; ) Fear having to change a flat tire at 2 a.m. : your body will be the freshest Zapata all-you-can-bite buffet ! On the bay, the mosquitos (called jejenes hay-hay-ness) are present like clockwork at sunset, every second day, when the wind blows from the south. Last but not least, this area is famous because of its bay of Pigs, the Bahia de Cochinos where a CIA-sponsored invasion by Cuban exiles was promptly thwarted in 1961.
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| EXCURSIONS • Bird watching in the swamps of Zapata with Angel Martinez or his brother Orestes El Chino, the doyen of guides. Tel. (45) 98-7354 or 91-5539. Rate : 10cuc per person for half-day. E-mail : chino @ zapata.atenas.inf.cu • Observe birds and crocos at Boca de Guama (Info 98-2979, 98-4131) • Navigate or walk between the 12 small islands of Laguna (Lake) del Tesoro and its park (Taino casas and statues of Cuban aboriginals) the Aldea Taina in Guama • Admire some 10,000 pink flamingos on the lake Laguna de las Salinas • Hike with a guide in the woods of Corral de Santo Tomás (Info 98-7249 or 7128) • Scuba dive in the tectonic fault at Cueva de Los Peces or at Caleta Buena from the center at Villa Playa Larga (Info 98-7225) or at the well-equiped and well-managed El Cocodrilito OUTDOORS Cycling, trekking, horseback riding, sailing, cave exploration, bird watching, scuba diving, in the bay or in caves. |
 Zapata Pier © Bissingerbooks, flickr.com |
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| WORTH THE VISIT IN THE CIENAGA Conjunto Esculturico (Sculpture park at Laguna de Tesoro), Criadero de Cocodrilos, home for some 8,000 crocodiles (Boca de Guama), Finca Fiesta Campesina and local museum of the dismantled sugar mill, both in Australia, Museo de la Comandancia (Cuban HQ during Bay of Pigs invasion), in Australia's old sugar mill office) Museo de Playa Girón (Playa Giron) : exhibits of some of the arms used in fighting off the invasion attempt; biographies of 156 Cubans who died defending the sovereignty of their country; Villa Guama, the hotel reachable only by boat (45-min ride, 10cuc) on the Laguna del Tesoro, the 92 sq km lake : well worth a couple of nights; mornings and sunsets are glorious in the epicentre of nature, water, a bird sanctuary. |
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This calm bayside village, 29 km from the national highway is the gateway to Parque Montemar (previously named Nacional Ciénaga de Zapata), then the road goes south to Playa Giron and Caleta Buena. From here, excursions back up the road to Boca, Guama and its Laguna del Tesoro. In town, also called El Caleton, or Barrio Caleton, there's a bank, a post office, a bakery, a pizzeria and not much else. Otherwise, the lone hotel, Villa Horizontes has the only activity in town.
RESTAURANTS Villa Horizontes, Laguna del Tesoro, La Boca HOTEL Villa Horizontes, 144 rooms, 50 cabinas (45) 98-7294 Link - Its Club Octopus for scuba diving. GUAGUAS Local minibus (guaguas) services cover the Cienaga • from Playa Larga to Jaguey Grande at 8h and 16h30 • from Playa Larga to Giron at 8h, 11h30, 16h30 and 20h • from Giron to Playa Larga 3 x day : am, p.m. and 19h30 • Bus service ASTRO from La Habana to Playa Girón fri, sat, sun and mondays • Route (ruta) #18 by VIAZUL to Cienfuegos and Trinidad stops at "Entronque de Jaguey (fork)" 4 times per day but in June 2010 the service was still suspended due to bad road conditions. See here. |
 Barcas on the bahia de Cochinos (Giron) © Robin Thom, flickr.com  Voleibol Terry Fox in Caleton © sogestour  Small bay with some of our recommended casas in Caleton © sogestour |
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 This is the northern limit of the bay of Pigs (bahia de Cochinos); beyond, in back is local beach, Maquina © Antonio Ruiz |
 Playa Maquina at sunrise : lovely long and deserted and truly empty from October to April. In Summer (verano) it fills daylong with workers and families from Jaguey Grande on vacation. Click to enlarge. |
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| SEE.KNOW.DO — IN THE CIENAGA • Hotel Cubanacan Villa Playa Larga (45) 98-7218, 60 bungalows (40-50cuc double), for its bar, beach and excursions to Parque La Cienaga. • Bird watching with Angel Martinez or his brother Orestes El Chino, the doyen of guides. Tel. (45) 98-7354 or 91-5539. 10cuc pp half-day. chino @zapata.atenas.inf.cu • Fly fishing - Lazaro Viñota works for the Parque national de Cienaga de Zapata and is an official fly fishing guide (Snook, Tarpon, Bonefish, Black Bass). pnacionalcz @enet.cu) Tel. (45) 91-3555 • CITMA's Estacion Ecologica in Palpite once offered free board to travelers to help research bats, birds, batrachians, crocodiles and all. Tel (45) 98-7119 WORTH THE VISIT — IN THE CIENAGA Conjunto Esculturico (Sculpture park at Laguna de Tesoro), Criadero de Cocodrilos, home for some 8,000 crocodiles (Boca de Guama), Finca Fiesta Campesina and local museum of the dismantled sugar mill, both in Australia, Museo de la Comandancia (Cuban HQ during Bay of Pigs invasion), in Australia's old sugar mill office) Museo de Playa Girón (Playa Giron) : exhibits of some of the arms used in fighting off the invasion attempt; biographies of 156 Cubans who died defending the sovereignty of their country; Villa Guama, the hotel reachable only by boat (45-min ride, 10cuc) on the Laguna del Tesoro, the 92 sq km lake : well worth a couple of nights; mornings and sunsets are glorious in the epicentre of nature, water, a bird sanctuary. |
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| OUR RECOMMENDATIONS V = suggested by webbies, owners and travellers. Check by phone or in person. Children 16 and under may share parents' bedroom at no charge — only if there is an additional bed available. Mention the age of your children when making the reservation. Suggestions and comments webmaster @cubacasas.net |
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BOOK BY PHONE • From Canada and the USA : 011 53 (add phone # preceded by Playa Larga's area code, 45). • From Europe, Great Britain, Scandinavia and Mexico : 00 53 (add phone # preceded by Playa Larga's area code, 45).  BOOK BY EMAIL : Click on logo to open a message addressed to that casa in your email application; or right-click to copy address showing at bottom of browser window. Spanish vocabulary here.  |
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Click photos to open page,
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See Playa Larga - Caleton casas in sequence.
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DAYAMI RODRIGUEZ DIAZ Located in a part of Playa Larga named Bahia Caleton a small secluded bay off the main bay of Pigs (Cochinos); neighbour of Enrique (below). Playa Maquina is one-minute walk away. Tel. (45) 98-7145 Dayami offers an independent-access mini apartment including a living room with small stereo unit and a mini fridge stocked with beer, water and soft drinks payable on departure. The one a/c bedroom with ensuite bathroom has a fan and one single and one double bed. Rates : 25cuc for mini apt per night (2 adults max.) Dinners 10cuc, breakfasts 4cuc |
 Click to see more. © sogestour |
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ENRIQUE RIVAS FENTE Located in a part of of Playa Larga named Caleton on a small secluded bay of its own; neighbour of Dayami (above). Public beach Playa Maquina is one-min walk away. Tel. (45) 98-7178 or (45) 98-7354 Enrique and his spouse are a charming couple and their hospitality lies with a view of the bay in their friendly casa. Air con bedroom with ensuite bath. Meals served, large portions, varied menu based on availability. Rates : 20-25cuc for bedroom per night (2 adults max.) |
 Click to see more. © sogestour |
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VILLA MARIETA Marieta Gómez Borges Located in Caleton, right on the bahia de Cochinos (Bay of Pigs) itself. Public beach Playa Maquina is 20 steps away. Tel. (45) 98-7124 cellular (5) 225-1034 One large aircon bedroom with private bathroom, large bar and ranchon in back, living room in front. Large terrace with a view of the Bay of Pigs, the beach and the barcas of neighbour fishermen. Rates : 25cuc for bedroom per night (2 adults max.) |
 Click to see more. © sogestour |
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CASA FEFA Josefa y Osnedy Located on the small bay in Caleton. Public beach Playa Maquina is one-min walk away. Tel. (45) 98-7133 Young couple offers strategically-located on the water of Caleton bay, a one-minute walk to the Caleton beach : one aircon bedroom with a private bathroom and a sunny terraza with lovely nature views. Osnedy can find you a guide for trekking or bird-watching. Excellent and copious cuisine. Rates : 20-25cuc for bedroom per night (2 adults max.) |
 Click to see more. © sogestour |
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EDENIS y ERNESTO Located in Caleton facing casa Osnedy (Fefa). Public beach Playa Maquina is one-min walk away. Tel. (45) 98-7278 The hospitable couple rents out two aircon bedrooms with a shared bathroom; the dining room has a nice view, as do the zen-like seats by the water under the tree. Around the corner on the lot, one can see the great bahia de Cochinos. Meals served. Kitchenette with well-stocked fridge. Rates : 20-25cuc for bedroom per night (2 adults max.) |
 Click to see more. © sogestour |
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MRS. MIRTA NAVARRO GONZÁLEZ Located in Caleton, in front of the Panaderia. Public beach Playa Maquina is 2-min walk away. Tel. (45) 98-7315 Mirta rents one aircon bedroom with private bathroom in her centrally-located casa, all nice and modernized. She cooks her meals in her nice and well-equiped cocina and serves them in her comedor, right by the sala. Rates : 20-25cuc for bedroom per night (2 adults max.) |
 Click to see more. © sogestour |
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AMERIS y FELIX Ameris Oliva Arzeaga & Felix Alfonso Martinez Located in Caleton, in the neighbourhood called Batey Mario López. Public beach Maquina is 2-min walk away. Tel. (45) 99-7131 With his wife Ameris, experienced scuba diver Felix rents one only air-conditioned bedroom with private bathroom (with its new and unusually modern shower head) with a large combination dining room and living room. Rates : 20-25cuc for bedroom per night (2 adults max.) |
 Click to see more. © sogestour |
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| CASA taken off our lists in February 2010 : VILLA JUANA — Juana Padron Rodriguez and spouse Lazaro : exiled | |||||||||||||||||
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The road to here from Playa Larga is dull : you don't see the bay most of the time, just rows of bushes and trees right and left. A nice stop along the way is El Galeon with its restaurant (low-priced veggy buffet for lunch), lookout and dive center — El Cocodrilito. Scuba dubas hang around Giron if only to marvel at the undersea world off Caleta Buena, a few k's past. Little Museo Municipal Playa Giron tells the step by step lost battle of the exiles in 1961. Laid-back and mostly deserted Hotel Horizontes Playa Giron is mid-range, stretched along a man-made barrier which protects the beach. Its swimming pool and bar are about the only action in this sleepy town.
RESTAURANTS Casa del Mar, El Galeon, El Pirata, Victoria; Pio Cuá, Rancho Benito, in Caleta Buena. |
 View from restaurant El Galeon, on way to Giron © sogestour  El Cocodrilito, well-equiped dive site © sogestour  The temperature today in Playa Giron GUAGUAS Local minibus (guaguas) services cover the Cienaga • from Playa Larga to Jaguey Grande at 8h and 16h30 • from Playa Larga to Giron at 8h, 11h30, 16h30 and 20h • from Giron to Playa Larga 3 x day : am, p.m. and 19h30 • Bus service ASTRO from La Habana to Playa Girón fri, sat, sun and mondays • Route (ruta) #18 by VIAZUL to Cienfuegos and Trinidad stops at "Entronque de Jaguey (fork)" 4 times per day but in June 2010 the service was still suspended due to bad road conditions. See here. |
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| SEE.KNOW.DO — IN THE CIENAGA • Hotel Cubanacan Playa Giron (45) 98-4110, 282 rooms (45cuc double) mostly in bungalows, for its bar, food and scuba diving centre (14 dive sites : minimum 25cuc per dive, 5 for 100). Link here. • Museo Municipal Playa Giron (45) 98-4122 is worth the ride here with its salas of artefacts from the famous Bay of Pigs invasion; nice to watch the short documentary named First defeat of US imperialism in the Americas which 50 years later is still stuck in the throat of the CIA-backed gusanos breathing their last gasps on calle Ocho in My, Am Me. • Bird watching with Angel Martinez or his brother Orestes El Chino, the doyen of guides. Tel. (45) 98-7354 or 91-5539. 10cuc pp half-day. chino @zapata.atenas.inf.cu • Scuba diving with Felix, master of his water domain with over 3.000 dives; has met Commandant Cousteau; knows every single site on the tip of his fins. Tel. (45) 99-7131 • Fly fishing - Lazaro Viñota works for the Parque national de Cienaga de Zapata and is an official fly fishing guide (Snook, Tarpon, Bonefish, Black Bass). pnacionalcz @enet.cu) Tel. (45) 91-3555 • CITMA's Estacion Ecologica in Palpite once offered free board to travelers to help research bats, birds, batrachians, crocodiles and all. Tel (45) 98-7119 WORTH THE VISIT — IN THE CIENAGA Conjunto Esculturico (Sculpture park at Laguna de Tesoro), Criadero de Cocodrilos, home for some 8,000 crocodiles (Boca de Guama), Finca Fiesta Campesina and local museum of the dismantled sugar mill, both in Australia, Museo de la Comandancia (Cuban HQ during Bay of Pigs invasion), in Australia's old sugar mill office) Museo de Playa Girón (Playa Giron) : exhibits of some of the arms used in fighting off the invasion attempt; biographies of 156 Cubans who died defending the sovereignty of their country; Villa Guama, the hotel reachable only by boat (45-min ride, 10cuc) on the Laguna del Tesoro, the 92 sq km lake : well worth a couple of nights; mornings and sunsets are glorious in the epicentre of nature, water, a bird sanctuary. |
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| OUR RECOMMENDATIONS V = suggested by webbies, owners and travellers. Check by phone or in person. Children 16 and under may share parents' bedroom at no charge — only if there is an additional bed available. Mention the age of your children when making the reservation. Suggestions and comments webmaster @cubacasas.net |
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BOOK BY PHONE • From Canada and the USA : 011 53 (add phone # preceded by Jaguey Grande's area code, 45). • From Europe, Great Britain, Scandinavia and Mexico : 00 53 (add phone # preceded by Jaguey Grande's area code, 45). BOOK BY EMAIL : Click on logo to open a message addressed to that casa in your email application; or right-click to copy address showing at bottom of browser window. Spanish vocabulary here. |
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HOSTAL LUIS Luis A. Garcia Padron On main seaside street / road leading to Caleta Buena, steps from Hotel Playa Giron and its beach. Tel. (45) 98-4258 or 99-4258 When full, they send guests to cousin Miguel Padron y Odalys. A modern casa on a large lot : travellers will find, in the back, apart from the main house, two aircon cabinas each with tiny shaded balcony with chairs and table, two beds and its own private ensuite bathroom. Both are clean, well laid-out. The main casa is where meals are served, if so wished. Horseback riding, scuba diving and tour guide services available through owners. Rates : 20-25cuc per bedroom per night (2 adults max.) according to season. |
 Click to enter © sogestour |
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LORENZO y ZOILA Lorenzo Reitor Bacallao & spouse Zoila Playa Giron, 50 meters from camino principal. Coming from the beach intersection, left after the high edificios. Tel. (45) 98-4296 On the floor reserved for visitors, one double aircon bedroom with private bathroom. Laundry. Other services you ask for. Aircon and fans. Hospitable hosts. Rates : 20-25cuc per bedroom per night (2 adults max.) |
 Mouseover for bedroom; click-hold for terraza © sogestour |
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GERALDO ACOSTA Playa Giron, 50 meters from camino principal Tel. (45) 98-4288 One aircon bedroom with private bathroom. Rates : 20-25cuc per bedroom per night (2 adults max.) |
 Geraldo Acosta casa © sogestour |
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K. S. ABELLA Ricardo Abella Hernandez Playa Giron, corner of the camino principal Tel. (45) 98-4383 Card says rent a room, seafood specialist. Actually, Ricardo used to work as chef in the kitchen at Villa Playa Giron. Now he's on his own and guests like what they taste. Rates : 20-25cuc per bedroom per night (2 adults max.) |
 K.S. Abella casa © sogestour |
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CARLOS RIZO V Casa # 39 Tel. (45) 98-4341 Carlos and Ana rent out one bedroom, air con, full bathroom. • Meals served. • Quiet site. • Divers like the place. Rates : 20-25cuc per bedroom per night (2 adults max.) |
 Casa Carlos Rizo © sogestour |
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MERCEDES y MARIO V Mercedes Sierra y Mario Garcia Rodriguez Behind Giron's main buildings, beach at 500m. Tel (45) 98-4138 He's a geography teacher; she, of physics. They own this large independent and comfortable casa and rent one aircon bedroom with fan, air con and screen windows; private bathroom. Rates : 15-20cuc per night (2 adults max.) o Full breakfast, 3cuc, dinner 8 o Terrace, parking, tour counseling. |
 Casa Mercedes © sogestour |
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Some 500 meters from the trans-island autopista, on the way to Cienfuegos and Trinidad, gateway to Zapata Peninsula, this city of 57,000 grew in the golden era of sugar exports as the human resources supplier of Central Australia, the sugar mill by the highway. The local sugar mill was dismantled in 2003 and its office building turned into a museum, the Museo de la Comandancia. The area is still quite active but the sugar mill staff has been recycled into teachers, instructors and other jobs since 2002, when the dismantling of most of the sugar mill network began. Before the Revolucion, the area numbered 877 privately-owned farms growing over some 30,000 acres; before the dismantling of the Russian empire, the local grove was said to cover 115,000 acres and was probably the largest in the world under one management. Most harvests were the work of students and overall, about 27,000 workers were caring and picking full-time. Some 80% of citrus were red grapefruits (Henderson, Rio Red and Star Ruby varieties), the rest is limes and a few tangerines, mostly for export. Today, joint ventures, with most notably Israel takes up a fourth of the total Cuban production and limes are on the way up as demand from the US is increasing; also, local processing facilities are capable of producing the juice qualities demanded by U.S. consumers. Hurricane damages hit the citrus industry very hard in 2001 and 2005. Overall the government reported a 2007 citrus crop of 469,000 tonnes, compared with more than 800,000 tonnes in 2004. In 2008, 35,000 tonnes of grapefruit and around 3,500 tonnes of oranges were lost after hurricane Ike ravaged the area.
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 Peaceful kingdom of the citricos industry © Azerefu, panoramio  Palacio del Pueblo + Chevrolet Naranjo © Cubanos 2112  Finca Fiesta Campesina, the Finquita restaurant © Lordcafe, panoramio  "Death to the invador", the rallying cry was not heeded : Fidel sent the failing 1,290 CIA-supported exiles to prison for one year and then returned them to Florida in exchange for food and medication. © |
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| SEE.KNOW.DO • Hotel Batey Don Pedro (45) 91-2825, 10 cottages (35cuc double), for its green surroundings and the neighbouring Finca (Farm) Fiesta Campesina. Link • Direccion Municipal de Cultura of Jaguey Grande can point to some monuments and other noteworthy sites, such as • Boca de Guama is a tourist complex purportedly showing a aboriginal culture including snacks and restaurant, gift shop, a tiny croc show but mainly the dockfrom where to cruise or cross Laguna del Tesoro and reach Villa Guama, the lakeside hotel. • Finca Fiesta Campesina, nearby : typical Cuban cuisine feasts in a typical campesina farm. • Museo de la Comandancia, (Tue-Sun), the building used by Fidel to oversee the fight for the island's sovereignty, attacked by US-backed exiles in what was called the Bay of Pigs; the spot was the office of the Central Australia sugar mill, 500 meters from the autopista. • Criadero de Crocodilos (8-5pm), a breeding farm and Cuba's first environmental protection scheme, launched in 1962; a tiny zoo and ceramic shop — Taller de Ceramica —are on premises or nearby. |
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GUAGUAS
Local minibus (guaguas) services cover the Cienaga • from Playa Larga to Jaguey Grande at 8h and 16h30 • from Playa Larga to Giron at 8h, 11h30, 16h30 and 20h • from Giron to Playa Larga 3 x day : am, p.m. and 19h30 • Bus service ASTRO from La Habana to Playa Girón fri, sat, sun and mondays • Route (ruta) #18 by VIAZUL to Cienfuegos and Trinidad stops at "Entronque de Jaguey (fork)" 4 times per day but in June 2010 the service was still suspended due to bad road conditions. See here. |
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BOOK BY PHONE
• From Canada and the USA : 011 53 (add phone # preceded by Jaguey Grande's area code, 45). • From Europe, Great Britain, Scandinavia and Mexico : 00 53 (add phone # preceded by Jaguey Grande's area code, 45). BOOK BY EMAIL : Click on logo to open a message addressed to that casa in your email application; or right-click to copy address showing at bottom of browser window. Spanish vocabulary here. |
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Click photos to open page, read description and see more pictures. Locate town in region on this map.
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See Jaguey Grande casas in sequence.
Click logo to see next. |
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CASA DE ZULEIDA Zuleida y Lazaro Viñola Calle 15 A #7211, entre 72 y 74, in front of a large community fruit & vegetable garden. Tel. (45) 91-3674 or cellular (5) 290-9402 (replace the 5 by 015 in Cuba) Two large air-conditioned bedrooms with private bathrooms. Garage. Excellent and welcoming couple, great food, lovely decoration. A great choice away from the mosquitoes which appear en masse every second day in the Cienaga de Zapata. Rates : 20-25cuc per bedroom per night (2 adults max.). |
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LAZARO y MARIA Ing. Lazaro Antonio Alayon Gonzalez y Dra. Maria Isabel Echenique Dìaz Calle 17 n°74C02 entre 74C y 76, close to the city's hospital. Tel. (45) 91-3555 The casa of this charming couple (Biologist Lazaro and Doctora Echenique) offer two air-conditioned bedrooms each with a private bathroom and fridge. Guests can enjoy breakfast or dinner and a refresher in the small swimming pool in the backyard. Rates : 20-25cuc per bedroom per night (2 adults max.). |
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LAS DELICIAS DE NERI José Antonio Acosta Ramos (Neri and Toni) Calle 1c No. 3804 B, entre 38 y 40, Reparto Las Delicias Tel. (45) 91-2021 Cell (5) 277-5067 The couple offers an independent apartment with its private entrance, kitchenette with fridge, aircon bedrooms with private bath; a small bedroom is also available separately. Terrace, patio, meals served, parking, fans, tv. Rates : 20-25cuc per bedroom per night (2 adults max.). Source : cubaradiso, 261009 |
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CASA BERTHA Calle 52 # 1727 entre 17 y 19, further into town, blocks from bars and commercial activity. Tel. (45) 91-2116 or 91-2310. Two aircon bedrooms sharing one bathroom. Good meals served. Garage for your rented car. Rates : 25-30cuc per bedroom per night. Source : tripadvisor, 190106 |
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CASA CARI Calle 52 # 1739 entre 17 y 19, close to preceding - No phone She has two separate rooms. One with a separate bathroom and the second shared with Cari. She is an excellent cook. Cari can arrange for someone to watch a vehicle for you for a cuc or dos. Rate : 25-30cuc per bedroom per night. Meals range from $3 to $12 CUC depending on choice. Source : tripadvisor, 190106 |
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