 Rebelde Ayer, Hospitalaria Hoy, Heroica Siempre |
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Metropolis of the Oriente, second largest city in the country, scene of an original, extroverted and mezclada culture, the ciudad where most uprisings took place (1868, 1895, 1898, 1953, 1957), Santiago de Cuba (Yesterday the Rebel, Today a Host, Always Heroic) also boasts the largest afro-caribbean contingent in Cuba. Having fled the Haitian revolution of 1791, some 18,000 coffee plantation owners (French families such as the Vidaux, Dallest, Lafite, Lombard, Bourzac, Manet, Préval and Lemoine) and their slaves settled here where they found an independent spanish colony, well-protected (El Morro fort built in the 16th century) and in dire need of cheap labor - the city only had 20,000 residents - which was not arriving fast enough from Africa. Its geographical location, like that of Kingston, Jamaica which it likens, makes it a veritable boiler where humidity slows visitors down. The city's reputation as a hustler haven is now, it seems, a thing of the past.
POPULATION 385,000 PLAYAS Beaches closest to Santiago are located 19 km east, along a 33-km stretch of coast between Siboney (see our page here) and Baconao, 48 km from here. La Poseta de Juan Gonzalez, 20km away along the coast : waterfall and lake for freshwater bathing. VISIT Cementerio Santa Ifigenia The cemetary boasts tombs of José Marti (2nd most revered spot in Cuba after El Cobre). Hourly changing of the guard is impressive; also Carlos Manuel de Céspedes "Father of the Fatherland"; Cuba's first President, Tomas Estrada Palma; Mariana Grajales who was not only Antonio Maceo's widow but a revolutionary still revered in much of Latin America; Frank and Josué Pais, recent heroes of the modern Revolucion and the graves of those who died in the failed taking of La Moncada on 26 de Julio 1953. SERVICES Cubataxi 65-1038 : ask for Che (Osvaldo Bez), a super guy and part-time beekeeper or his buddies Daniel "Italiano" or Eugenio Borrero, best taxistas in town • Internet connection at Etecsa, facing Museo Bacardi • Clinica internacional, Vista Alegre, 64-2589 • Cubana airline 69-1014 or 69-1865 : greet agent Wesme Pila Beltran at main airport counter : a fully-bilingual graduate of Youth Canada World. • Casas all full ? Try these small hotels : Hostal Basilio (Basilio 403, e/Calvario y Carniceria; tel (22) 65-1702) : doubles incl. breakfast from 54cuc; 8 rooms in newly-restored old colonial; or Gran Hotel Escuela on Enramada, corner of San Félix : basic doubles for 30-40cuc; tel. (22) 65-3020 : part of the local hotel school with 15 rooms to rent. Both accept credit cards, offer in-room fridge and a/c. TRANSPORTATION Air Three daily 2h10 flights with Cubana and AeroCaribbean (Tel. 68-7255) from Havana ; fare 120cuc; taxi to town 12cuc. • Rail (see sked link above) The Tren Especial to/fro Havana leaves every 2nd evening (Tel. 62-2836 or 7759) • Road Bus Viazul (tel. 62-8484; see sked link above) from La Habana : 6 stops, 3 each day • Car rentals : Via Rentacar 68-7278 at Cubatur across from Casa Granda : ask for Rafael, honest and cool; also : Cubacar 65-3525, Havanautos 65-1056, Micar 68-6041 and Transtur 68-7206 • Santiago site with transport info here |
 Catedral and bahia from Hotel Casa Granda rooftop © sogestour •|• Cayo Granma, tiny island in the bay © insay organic.hu TO ENJOY THE CAPITAL OF THE ORIENTE ... ... take a walk on Enramada (J. A. Saco) street for pedestrians only between 9 and 9 from Plaza de Marte to Corona : used to be filled with smoky cars ... ride a bike on the shaded streets of Vista Alegre ... check out the domino fanaticos of Padre Pico in Tivoli ... spy on pedestrians in Parque Cespedes from the roof of the Casa Granda Hotel ... take in the panorama from Balcon de Velazquez ... bite into a filet of fish on Cayo Granma smack in the middle of the bay : get there by a local bus or taxi (5cuc) to Punta Gorda and switch to the ferry ... find a rare book at Libreria La Escalera where the muy sympatico Eddy will introduce you to a music trio, calle Heredia 265 ... marvel at the energy of dancing kids and aging singers in the cultural spots of calle Heredia ... refresh your eyes admiring the classic paintings in Museo Emilo Bacardi Moreau ... relive recent history in La Moncada and at the Museo de Lucha Clandestina ... slowly sip a cafecito at La Isabelica, facing Plaza Dolores ... remember history at Cementerio Santa Ifigenia. In all, a sound and sight spectacle you will enjoy remembering. In spite of everything, this city's soul manages to stick to yours. The way India does, in a kind of a love-it-or-leave-it relationship.  Quiet Loma del Intendente near Padre Pico © sogestour •|• View of rooftops © Marino San Jose  Enramada street, pedestrian and breathable from 9h to 9h © sogestour •|• Nuestra Señora de la Caridad (Oshun for santeria believers) at El Cobre where Cubans pray the country's patron saint and romantics look for Hemingway's Nobel Prize Medal © William Trumbull  Parque Serrano along Enramada © sogestour •|• Parque Céspedes and Poder Popular where Fidel gave victory speech on Jan. 2, 1959 © Heidi Jonker  Music pioneers at Casa de La Trova © sogestour •|• Señora buying birdseeds © sogestour |
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| SEE y ENJOY Calle Enramada (J. A. Saco), the main commercial street becomes strictly for pedestrians from Plaza de Marte to Corona Street from 9am to 9pm. The five city-center parks : Plaza de Marte (Libertad), Plaza de Dolores (Aguilera), Parque Cespedes, Parque Serrano. And large Parque Abel Santamaria near the Moncada (Museo 26 de Julio) and the baseball stadium. Other places to see include Balcón de Velázquez, Casa del Caribe, Castillo del Morro, Catedral Nuestra Señora de la Asunción, Cayo Granma, Cuartel Moncada, Museo de Ambiente Cubano, Museo de Lucha Clandestina, Museo Diego Velasquez, Museo Emilio Bacardí Moreau, Teatro Heredia, Iglesia Santa Lucia.
TRANCE, DANCE & PERFORMANCE Have a look at the pros : salsa, casino, mambo, chachacha or son courses and lessons offered by members of Conjunto Folklorico de Oriente founded in 1959 or Ballet Folclórico Cutatumba, an Afro-Cuban group well-known in North America and Europe. Some of the oldies and goodies of Cuban music still perform : Los Jubilados, 70-year olds, sometimes at Casa de la Trova; Kokoyé, folklore group of Afro-Cuban and Haitian musicians. Not to be missed, the Vocal Divas a band of senior women singing a cappella. Sweat along with young chicos and hot chicas at Discoteca La Iris, calle Aguilera 617, e/Bamada y Placido. Bring ear plugs. And if you don't pick up (because he/she can't hear your opening line), you won't go home alone after cruising (for maybe ... 30 seconds) at Club 300, down the same calle Aguilera, between Lacret and San Felix very close to Parque Cespédes. Bring condoms. ADMIRE Dancers and musicians performing at Cabaret Tropicana Santiago (similar to Havana's Tropicana) : located about 2 miles out of town : 35cuc per person; on a smaller scale, the Santiago Café at the Melia Santiago Hotel : 5cuc per person. Otherwise, lots of music shows by up-and-coming and established stage artists where dancing along is allowed ; ) Locations on calle Heredia : Casa de la Musica at #208, Casa de la Trova (Patio de Artex) at #304, UNEAC's Patio de la Jutía Conga at #266, Museo del Carnaval at #303, Casa del Estudiante at #205 or the Patio de los Dos Abuelos (Grandfathers' Patio) at calle Pizarro (Pérez Carbo) #5 on Plaza de Marte and Casa de las Tradiciones at 154, calle Jesus Rabi, e/San Fernando y Princesa. On certain Saturday nights, up to 10,000 Santiagueros could show up to dance with live band music when Noches Santiagueras sprouted up in 3-4 different venues, varying from week to week. Are these still on? Check it out. |
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 Parque Cespedes, La Trova, Enramada the pedestrian street, Casa Granda Hotel, Museo Bacardi, et al |
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| OUR RECOMMENDATIONS V = suggested by webbies and travelers. Check in person or by phone. Children 16 and under may share parents' bedroom at no charge only if there is an additional bed available. Mention the age of your children when making the reservation. Comments and suggestions webmaster @cubacasas.net |
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| BOOK BY EMAIL • From Canada and the USA : 011 53 + # preceded by the city's area code, 22 • From Europe, Great Britain, Scandinavia, Mexico : 00 53 + phone # preceded by area code 22 |
 BOOK BY EMAIL : Click on above logo to open an email message addressed to that casa in your email application. Spanish words here.  |
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| Click photos to see each casa's page and description. Map of area with casas here. |
See Centro casas in sequence.
 Click logo to move to next casa. |
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CASA NENITA Raúl Vila Rodriguez y Nena Acosta Alas Calle San Geronimo (Sanchez Hechavarria) 472, entre Carniceria (Pio Rosado) y Calvario (Porfirio Valiente), close to Enramada pedestrian street and Parque Serrano and 4 from Parque Cespedes. Tel. (22) 65-4110 Dating from 1850, a large and charming colonial managed by a charming couple. • Huge double living room with high ceiling opening onto a manicured patio with flowerbeds and trees, lined by bedrooms. Open-air kitchen in the back. Top choice of the ciudad : best central location, very quiet area, charming hosts, intimacy, comfort. |
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VILLA MAJA Javier Rodriguez Socias y Matilde Oliva Real Calle Heredia 574 (upstairs), corner of Paraiso, steps from Plaza de Marte and the new pedestrian street, Enramada (J. A. Saco). Tel. (22) 62-7583. Javier and Matilde are both doctors who live alone and rent one air-conditioned bedroom with its private bathroom. Guests can enjoy views and intimacy from two small private terraces and a balcony on the green rooftop of this unique art deco casa. Meals served upstairs or in the dining room one floor down. Guests have use of kitchen if desired. |
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CASA NIVIA V Nivia Melendez Calle General Portuondo (Trinidad), #510, entre Hartman (San Félix) y General Bandera (San Bartolomé) Tél. (22) 62-28-93 Lovely large colonial casa near Parque Céspedes. The charming and always smiling couple (Roberto and Nivia) rent one large aircon bedroom with its own private bathroom, two large beds, complete bathroom. Everything is neat and tidy. Other services: car custodian, TV, laundry, patio. Rates : 20-25cuc per night for bedroom (2 adults max.). Breakfasts, 3cuc; dinners 6-8cuc. |
 Click to enter. © Nekane Rinxols |
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NESTOR HEVIA MATA V Santa Rosa # 290, e/Corona y Mejorana, a 5-min walk from Casa de la Trova and casa de la Musica, from Cespedes Park and the Casa Granda. Tel. (22) 62-5863 Nestor rents one aircon bedroom with its private bathroom and shower in a modernized colonial casa and its nice flowery corridor lined with plants. 2510007 |
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CASA LOURDES Lourdes de la Caridad Gómez Beatón Calle Felix Pena (Santo Tomas) 454 (upstairs) e/ Sagarra (San Francisco) y San Geronimo, facing Peleteria La Reina, some 3 mins. from Parque Céspedes. Tel. (22) 65-4468 Lourdes and hubby Juan have been renting since 1997. Upstairs, in the back, from a small open patio, two large bedrooms (one enormous with two doubles and a single), the other with a double and single; each with its own modern bathroom, table, chairs and fridge. Views from rooftop terrace. Large living room with lots of rockers opens on narrow balcony to the street. Next door, a new restaurant will open soon "Santiago time". |
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LEONARDO y ROSA Leonardo Rodriguez Calleja y su esposa Rosa Calle Clarín (Padre Quiroga) # 9, entre Aguilera (Marina) y Heredia, 5 blocks from Casa Granda, 3 from Plaza de Marte and 2 from Parque Dolores Tel. (22) 62-3574. Built at the end of the 19th century and located in the historical quarter, this house is well furnished with a distinct look : wrought-iron, veneered walls, glass. Leonardo works for the city conservation office. Two air-conditioned bedrooms, each with private bathrooms; one from the living room, the other in the back passed the patio, upstairs. Charming indoor court in the shade. Street parking available. |
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CASA TANIA Tania María Garcia Terrero Cale Juan Castillo Duany (Santa Lucia) 101, entre Callejon Santiago y Teniente Rey (Padre Pico) Tel: (22) 62-4490 Tania, a doctor and her engineer husband Braulio, along with their two daughters welcome you to their large colonial casa. Charming and hospitable, they will guide you to all things santiaguera. The couple rents two aircon bedrooms each with its own private bathroom. Large patio, superbly appointed living and dining rooms. Outstanding views from rooftop terrace. Rates : 20cuc per bedroom per night (2 adults max.) |
 Click to enter. © Joost Bossuyt, PBase |
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PEDRO GUILLERMO MARTI VAZQUEZ Calle Corona 805, entre Santa Rita y San Carlos, 5 blocks from Hotel Casa Granda. Tel. (22) 62-0101 On narrow and busy Corona, owned by elderly people whose children live 2 blocks away (see below) and also in Bayamo. The house offers : • Large living room |
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JUAN MARTI VAZQUEZ Calle Padre Pico 614, entre Princesa y San Fernando, one block from Casa de la Tradicion Francesa (Trova-style shows) and a 4-min. walk from Plaza Cespedes Tel. (22) 62-0101 (c/o above house of their parents). Superb colonial-style decoration • Two air conditioned bedrooms sharing a renovated bathroom • Flowery mini patio fleuri with caged birds on ground floor • Roof terrace with view of town. |
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CASA COLONIAL MARUCHI V Calle Hartmann (San Felix) 357, e/ Trinidad y San German Tel. (22) 62-0767 or 62-7487 Eyewitness Travel Guides say it's one of the best-run casas in town. The rooms in front are furnished colonial style and the centre patio is full of plants and a peacock full of itself. Señor Maruchi collects santeria artefacts and rents two air-conditioned bedrooms with a shared bathroom. |
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GERARDO DUQUE DE ESTRADA RIERA Calle Bartolomé Masó (San Basilio) 404 1/2 entre Porfirio Valiente (Calvario) y Pio Rosado Tel. (22) 62-0226 or (22) 62-8420 User-friendly home, nice entrance, (see right), close to Heredia (and the music school and Trova cabarets) but without the buzz. • Quiet and clean. • Two bedrooms, shared bathroom. • Their business card tells the truth : « Confort, Seguridad y Garantia » |
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CASA MARILYN V Calle Bayamo 30, entre Reloj y San Agustin Tel. (22) 62-5120 Colonial casa located in a very quiet area. The elderly couple live on ground floor and rent, upstairs, two air-conditioned bedrooms, one with its own private bathroom, fridge and tv and one double bed. Other bedroom has two single beds, a washbasin and a shared bath. Nice enclosed patio. Bedrooms are accessed by stairs in the dining room, where breakfasts and dinners are served. Rates : 15-25cuc (depending on season) per bedroom (2 pers. max.). |
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IRMA JORDANA VALLS V Calle Santa Lucia (J. Castillo Duany) 303, entre San Pedro y San Felix (Hartmann), in front of the music school. Tel. (22) 62-2391 Irma, the charming owner is also a great cook. She can give you travel counseling for sites in and around the city. Her casa is not only lovely but very well-maintained with two bedrooms (one double, one triple), both with aircon, bathroom and fridge. Meals served. Source : Karine Bergeron Rates : from 15cuc per bedroom (2 adults max.). |
 Mouseover for bedroom © Karine Bergeron |
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ODALIS LOPEZ RODRIGUEZ V Avenida Paseo de Marti 159, entre Prolongacion de Rastro & San Fermin Tel: (22) 63-5006 Adorable casa with a nice green-walled patio, small fountain and vine-covered roof. One could spend hours just talking on and on. The place's true charm are its hosts with Odalis leading the dance with humour, along with her family. She has had her permit only since Feb 07. |
EVELIO LORA RAMOS V Calle Lico Bergues 9, entre Barnada y Paraiso, 10 mins. walk from Plaza Céspedes and 100 ft from Plaza de Marte. Tel. (22) 65-9137 You can rent the whole house or separately : Two air-conditioned bedrooms with shared bathroom. Living room, kitchen with fridge |
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MARINO SAN JOSE V Calle Rey Pelayo (Eduardo Yero) n° 112, entre Reloj y Clarin (Padre Quiroga) Tel. (22) 62-5381 Sympatico English teacher with a modest but very well situated bedroom on the roof of his casa. Superb views of the city (Hotel Casa Granda, church steeples, the bay) from the terrace right by the bedroom. Ventilation, air con, private bathroom, fridge and Internet connection. Excellent meals prepared by request. The owner lives alone and ensures his guests they will enjoy quiet, intimacy and comfort. |
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GABRIEL JARDINES TORNÉS V Calle Rey Pelayo (Eduardo Yero) n° 110, e/ Reloj y Clarin (Padre Quiroga). Tel. (22) 65-6435 In this large recently-renovated colonial, an older, hospitable couple rents one aircon bedroom with private bathroom. The son also speaks en français, s'il vous plaît. He was renovating in December 2006 so now everything is spic and span. Breakfasts served. Rates : 15cuc for bedroom (2 adults max.); breakfasts 3cuc. 220208 |
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