www.cubacasas.net •|• Baracoa

Like Hatuey, we'd rather go to hell ... after a few beers.

Not easy to reach by road (but what a drive on La Farola, the alpine-like carretera with 150 curves over 35km!), Baracoa is at the eastern end of the country on the north coast of Guantanamo province, some 5 hours from Santiago.

The town was established as the country's capital when Diego Velazquez de Cuéllar arrived from Spain with 300 men in 1511. Isolated from the rest of the island for nearly 450 years, the town was to become the focal point of all the rebels in Cuba's history from the very first, Hatuey to the most famous, the Che to the most enduring, Fidel.

The town and its surrounding area (El Yunque, Maguana, Nava, Toa, Humboldt, Yumuri, Duaba) are to the Cuban universe what Tibet is to the rest of the world and we're barely exaggerating. Most Cubans have never heard of these places. If you've ever been to some island in the South Pacific, you get the idea. If you really like it, don't tell anyone.

Biking down a backroad at night, we saw a tiny "community video room". On its roof, a solar panel : bright minds learning in pitch-black wilderness. Revolutionary.

DISTANCES (km)
Boca de Yumuri, 15
Guantanamo, 116
Guardalavaca, 234
Holguin, 253 via Moa
La Habana, 1,100
Maguana, 25
Moa, 76
Santiago, 240
Yumuri, 15

MAPS & LINKS

• Map - Guantanamo to Baracoa

• Map - Municipio of Baracoa and surroundings

• Map - Our casas on map of town center

• Map - The town, the bay and burroughs

• Map - The town and sites

• Map - The coast and area in relief

• Massacre and mutilation of Tainos (illustration)

• Photos - Parque Alejandro de Humboldt

• Photos - Our galeria of Baracoa and surroundings

• Photos - Our galeria of Maguana

• Panorama (Porto Santo) © Thomassin

• Local weather forecast (Meteorologisk NRK)

• Daily currency exchange rates

• All that's natural on Guantanamo province

POPULATION 42,000

SEE
Plaza Cacique Hatuey (Parque Central or Independencia) where everybody meets. Saturday nights can be heady. In front of the Catedral the bust of Hatuey, first Cuban internationalist (named here the first Rebel of America, El Primero) who arrived from Hispaniola (Haiti/Dom Rep) like many Frenchmen to warn Cubans the Spaniards were killing anyone who did not believe in God. Before being burnt alive in 1512 for having fomented resistance, he asked if there were religious fanatics (Spaniards) in heaven. When he was told so, he replied he'd rather go to hell. Proof he did, his name is on beer bottles • Museo archeológico Cueva del Paraiso, 300 m from El Castillo • Catedral Nuestra Señora de la Asunción and its Cruz de la Parra, the oldest European relic on the continent. In dire need of repairs, Italian funds are presently used to restore it • Museo Municipal (Fuerte Matachin) with Taino exhibits and photos of La Rusa • Fabrica de Tabaco (cigar factory) • Monumento Antonio Maceo at the end of the airport runway. Majestically laid-out, it marks the beginnings of the revolutionnary forces and the meeting in Baracoa in 1895 of Marti, Maceo, Gomez, Garcia, Sanchez and Echevarria which eventually led to the overthrow of the Spanish colony three years later • Hotel La Rusa (1953), once owned by Magdalena Rowenskaïa (photos at Museo Matachin), a princess during Nicolas II's reign. Che Guevara, Errol Flynn, Fidel Castro et al have slept there. She gave $25,000 to the Barbudos in 1959. They thanked her by building La Farola, the scenic zigzag road which leads here, freeing Baracoa from isolation in 1964. Spasibo, Magda. Her son, a painter, still lives in town • Fábrica de Cucurucho • Fuerte de Seboruco (Hotel El Castillo)

PLAYAS
Playa Boca de Miel, at the mouth of the rio of the same name. They say who bathes in it will... Ask someone to tell you the legend. Playa Cruz de Colon (Hotel Porto Santo) Playa Duaba (5 km) La Punta Playa Maguana (25 km) Playa Nava (31 km).

EVENINGS
485 Aniversario, Casa de la Cultura, Casa de la Trova, Cine-Teatro Encanto, Circulo Social (teenage disco), Disco Noche de Praga, the noisy El Ranchon (up the hill in reparto Paraiso), La Terraza on a roof in town centre. On the first weekend in April, it's party time during the Carnaval de Baracoa.

RESTAURANTS & PALADARES
Caracol, El Colonial, El Parque, La Colonial, La Punta, Hotel Gaviota El Castillo, Hotel Islazul La Rusa (Tel. 21 64-2337), Hostal La Habanera, the new, 10-room, 46cuc/day Cubanacan hotel in town centre, Hotel Gaviota Porto Santo, across the bay.

SERVICES
Cubatur excursions (see below), calle Maceo 149 Tél. (21) 64-5306 Cubana de Aviacion, calle Marti # 181 (21) 64-2171 • Gustavo Rizo Airport (21) 64-2171 • Havanautos (21) 64-3606 • Sala Internet at the Correos de Cuba : bring a sweater, it's freezing in there and the staff is more interested in making private phone calls than helping you, a shame for Etecsa. • Massages in the casa. Professional Miguel Cantillo has 20 years experience Tel. (21) 64-3351

TRANSPORTATION
Bus Astro - From Guantanamo (4 departures daily, 6cuc) La Habana (every 2nd day, 19 hrs travel time (!), 56cuc) • Bus Viazul Leaves Santiago at 07:30 and 14:15 arr Baracoa 12:30 and 19:00 13cuc. Both terminals share the point by the bay entrance at the end of Maceo Street • Aerotaxi, to/fro Santiago (3xweek 28cuc) • Cubana de Aviacion, to/fro La Habana (3xweek 108cuc), Santiago 22cuc

Mouseover for La Farola. Click to enlarge.

The town, the cathedral dominating its center and mount Yara on the horizon © sogestour •|• The Fabrica is 40 years old, the chocolate made fresh daily. © sogestour

Chicos on the Malecon © sogestour •|• Parque Marti from Marilyn Noa's doorstep © sogestour

Entrance of the bay, airport in background © sogestour •|• Taken from casa El Mirador, this is the Castillo on top of town © sogestour

From the bahia, the sun sets behind El Yunque © sogestour •|• Hatuey forever facing the institution whose fanatics burned him alive © sogestour

The Playa Duaba dragged there to break the waves and protect the port installations on the bay. Across, the Porto Santo Hotel © sogestour •|• Cyclist enjoying calle Mariana Grajales downhill © sogestour

Map of centre with location of our casas •|• The catedral's interior, to be renovated with Italian funds © sogestour

EXCURSIONS
• Río Toa, 10 km — One of the country's longest rivers, the Toa runs wide and deep with quite a strong current in season. Superb greens, freshwater swimming, memories to last a lifetime • El Yunque, 8 km The famous, mysterious, daunting and irresistible mountaintop can be reached on foot in 2 and a half hours. Stupendous and well-deserved views of the area. The Campismo El Yunque with its wooden cabins is reserved for Cubans. Best is to book a day tour including transportation from Baracoa, leaves at 9h15, returns at 16h for 16cuc, including the trek with guide up the Yunque and 90 mins. swimming in a freshwater laguna. Check with Cubatur in town. Tel. (21) 64-5306 • Finca Duaba, some 5 km on the way to Playa Maguana A typical waterside farm with all you can imagine, even a boat ride up the river and a typical meal. • Boca de Yumuri, 15 km on the way to La Farola Freshwater river, small beach, canyon for trekking and kids selling you escargots. (Temporarily closed since Sept. 06 because of military exercices.) Only Cuban place left where a few descendants (with facial features) of its aboriginal Tainos still live. Their hero was Guamá, who set fire to Spanish outposts in 1512, answering Hatuey's call. He was never captured and died of natural causes 20 years later • Playa Maguana and Playa Nava, 28 and 34 km Best, quasi-deserted beaches of the region. Get there for the day or spend a night at Villa Maguana. (See below.) • Parque Nacional Alejandro de Humboldt, 40 km UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2001. Excursions along the coast. An ecosystem with some 905 endemic varieties of flora. Few of its 59,400 hectares are open to the public. A full-day excursion (9h-17h) including 4h30mins in the mountains, 1h30mins to the El Maja waterfall. English-Español guide on hand. 24cuc per person; min. 4 passengers, including transportation from Baracoa by minibus or jeep. Boat ride on the bay of Taco is available on request. Book through Cubatur Tel. (21) 64-5306 • Boca de rio Miel (Temporarily closed since Sept. 06 because of military exercices.).

Photo © L. Escalona

CUCURUCHO !
In the tiny mountain settlement of Cagüeibaje, 20km before Baracoa on La Farola, there is a lookout point and kiosk where a group of mountain villagers and cooking artesans headed by Sra. Eyder Laffita sell what some say is the best cucurucho in Cuba.

Served in a cone, the cucurucho is basically grated coconut sweetened with pineapple, grapefruit and guanábana, sometimes honey. Strictly natural, it's a sweet like no other.

The group also offers cremas de coco, turrones (nougats), empanadas, fresh juice, wine, vinegar and bocaditos. During the Fiesta de La Farola (end of July), they sell out.

OUR RECOMMENDATIONS
V = suggested by travellers or owners. Check by phone. There were about 180 casas renting in town when we stayed here in Nov. 2006. Children 16 and under may share parents' bedroom at no charge only if there is an additional bed available. Mention the age of your children when making the reservation. Comments and suggestions webmaster @cubacasas.net

BOOK BY PHONE
Since Dec 06, numbers have 6 digits, a 6 added at beginning.
• From Canada and the USA : 011 53 (add phone # preceded by 21 for Baracoa). Ie, to book Gustavo's : 011 53 21 64-2536

• From Europe, Great Britain, Scandinavia and Mexico : 00 53 (add phone # preceded by 21 for Baracoa). Ie, to book Gustavo's : 00 53 21 64-2536

BOOK BY EMAIL : Click on logo to open a message addressed to that casa in your email application; or right-click to copy address showing at bottom of browser window. Spanish vocabulary here.

Click photos to see each casa's page and description. Locate most casas on this map..

See most casas in sequence.

Move to next casa by clicking this logo.

GUSTAVO y YALINA
Flor Crombet 125, entre Frank Pais y Pelayo Cuervo in town center. Tel. (21) 64-2536

Large colonial built in 1890 by a coffee dealer from Marseille; completely renovated in 2006.

Well-decorated living room with a great antique dining room set and two air-conditioned bedrooms, each with its private bathroom.

Naturally-lit patio where Yalina's home-cooking can be savoured, including a muy rico chocolate cup with which she greeted us. From the roof : view of the sea, mount Yara and the Parque Infantil. Guaranteed parking.

Click for more © sogestour

RAFAEL NAVARRO GALLARDO
Rafael y Adis
Calle Felix Reúnes 29, entre Coroneles Galano y Céspedes, one block from Casa de la Trova in town center. Tel. (21) 64-3441

A couple of teachers rent a casa with views of the sea, the mountains and the hilltop Hotel Castillo. The one bedroom with its private bathroom is on its own private floor, its own balcony with a rooftop terrace to boot.

Full breakfasts and comidas tipicas are served. Affordable negotiable rates.

Click for more © sogestour

CASA ELVIRA
Rosa Elvira y Rolando Leyva
Calle Frank País No. 19, e/ Martí y Maceo, some 50m from Plaza Central Tel. (21) 64-3580 or 64-3634

Two licenciados rent two aircon bedrooms, each with a private bathroom, small living room at the entrance, dining table and a dining area under a light well, plus a new patio in the back. Meals served

Among specialties : Pescado a la Santa Barbara or the very local delicacy Bacán y Calalú. Laundry, Internet.

20-30cuc for each bedroom per night (2 adults max.)

Click for more. © sogestour

MS ONDINA LEGRA RODRIGUEZ V
Felix Ruenes N° 12, entre Cespedes y Ciro Frias in town center. Tel. (21) 64-2767

"We spent 17 days there ! We couldn't decide to leave this family !

"Colonial house, ideally located right in the heart of town. Ondina rents one air-conditioned bedroom with a double bed and a single as well as its own private bathroom. Ideal for traveling couple with a child. Excellent cuisine."

Rates : 20-25cuc for bedroom per night (2 adults max.)

Click for more. © sogestour

MARILYN NOA HERNANDEZ
Ciro Frias No. 18, e/ Martí y Maceo, opening on to Parque Marti in town center. Tel. (21) 64-3427

Charming and hospitable Marilyn runs a colonial casa (blue door, at right) where she rents one air-conditioned bedroom with a private bathroom right by an open and covered dining are by a sunny patio with its Cristal parasol.

At the entrance, a small living room, a tv room by the kitchen, the dining area, the patio and in the back, narrow stairs leading to a sun-in-your-face terrace.

Click for more. © sogestour

ANAELBIS TORRES LOBAINA
Calixto Garcia #162 and 164 entre Cespedes y Coroneles Galano Tel. (21) 64-2754

Lovely casa on the high part of town with a gazebo in the garden, overlooking the bay. Anaelbis and her sister-in-law next door, together offer two air-conditioned bedrooms, each with its private bathroom, a garden and a terrace.

Señora Torres is a doctor and she and hubby Ricardo will make you feel right, if not healthier, at home.

Casa is close to Hotel El Castillo, its superb views and swimming pool.

Listed in Petit Futé 2007-2008

Click for more © sogestour

CASA DE DARISLEY
Daisy y Serbelio
Calle Felix Ruenes 7, entre Cespedes y Ciro Frias, one block from La Trova Tel. (21) 64-3735

"One air-conditioned bedroom with its private entrance, as well as private bath and kitchen.

"The family is marvelous and Mami Daisy one of the best cooks in town. Meals prepared on request, about 7 or 8cuc including everything : main course, vegetables, fruits and juice."

Paola Sangiorgi, CC, november 2003

CASA TROPICAL
Frank, Arnoldo y Amalia Oliveros
Calle Martí 175, entre Moncada y Diaz, directly on Parque Marti in town centre.
Tel. (21) 64-3437

The Oliveros family rents two large, modestly-furnished air-conditioned bedrooms, each with private baths.

Large living room, vast dining room, granda patio partially shaded. Meals served.

Click for more © sogestour

DANIEL SALOMON PAJAN
Céspedes 28, entre Rubert Lopez y Maceo Tel. (21) 64-2122 or cell phone in Cuba (015) 291-7413

In town center, facing Lucy's casa, the young bilingual history buff and guide at the Matachin municipal museum lives with his spouse and two young daughters.

He rents one air-conditioned bedroom with its private bathroom.

Guest can enjoy madame's cooking in the lovely shaded patio. ('Twas raining and the room was occupied the evening we visited.)

ISABEL CASTRO VILATO
Mariana Grajales # 35, entre Calixto Garcia y Emiliano Corrales, a 2-min. walk from town center in Reparto Playa. Tel. (21) 64-2267

Charming, calm and vast house with a nice open dining room/veranda with its four-pointed roof ("quatro aguas"). Isabel is a charming hostess who rents : Two air-conditioned bedrooms (one larger, in the back) with fans, each with two beds (double and signle) and their own private bathroom.

Veranda, patio, garden (platanitos, limones, naranjas, mangos, oregano, culantro, and more). The casa, minutes from the centre of town, offers a country feeling, unlike any other in Baracoa. Enclosed parking on grounds (only one in town).

EL MIRADOR
Sra. Iliana Sotolongo
Calle Maceo # 86, entre 24 de Febrero y 10 de Octubre, a block from Parque Independencia, on a quiet stretch of Maceo Tel. (21) 64-3592

Large casa upstairs of colonial building where Iliana rents two large bedrooms each with a private bathroom and two double beds.

Large living and dining rooms, balcony in front, unique views from the back. Guaranteed parking.

CASA COLONIAL
Abigail y Alba
Calle Maceo # 92, entre 24 de Febrero y 10 de Octubre Tél. (21) 64-3124

Two doors down from the preceding, this large colonial offers two aircon bedrooms, each with private bathrooms.

Small open terrace in the back by a bedroom, Large living room. Parking on street.

CASA COLONIAL LUCY
Sra. Lucy Navarro Rodriguez
Céspedes 29, entre Rubert Lopez y Maceo Tel. (21) 64-3548

Lucy has been renting forever it seems, going through hardships, bad lucks and more. Her large colonial includes, off the entrance, a very large aircon bedroom, two doubles, window onto street, rockers, private bathroom and fridge.

On the roof, a second aircon bedroom with a double and a single, a fridge and its own part of the terrace.

Partially-shaded balcony cum patio with a large dining room in the back by the kitchen.

ALFREDO y LILIANA V
Ing. Alfredo Quintero y Arq. Liliana Morgado
Calle Martí No. 69, entre Coliseo y 24 de Febrero Tel. (21) 64-3172

"Engineer Alfredo and Architect Liliana renovated this 19th century colonial true to its original high ceilings, wooden decorated walls, mosaic floors, room layout and typical roof tiles. The patio is nicely arranged with plants and provides a tranquil environment.

"The guest bedroom has a double and single bed and its own bathroom, all newly renovated and very clean with air-conditioning, a ceiling fan and a fridge.

"Parking is available directly in front of the house. Alfredo and Liliana are lovely and caring hosts.

Rates : 20cuc for bedroomper night (2 adults max.)

"They inform you about places to visit and organize language and dancing lessons as you wish. Liliana is an exceptionally-gifted cook, the food she prepares is one of the best in the whole of Cuba.

Don't miss the hot chocolate for breakfast !" From Andrea 24.06.07

DENNY RODRIGUEZ GUILARTE V
Calle Ruber Lopez 86, entre Lopez Pena y Limbano Sanchez Tel. (21) 64-2431

Upstairs, Denny rents a floor with two aircon bedrooms sharing a bathroom, dining and living rooms.

He can prepare meals, his fridge is always stocked with beer and he gets along in Ingles.

Suggested by Toffy, Canada on virtualtourist, 18.10.04

CASA COLONIAL V
Andres y Irma
Calle Maceo 56, entre Coliseo y Peralejo Tel. (21) 64-3298

A remarkable colonial casa right in the casco historico. It offers two large bedrooms, one very lighted is in front but the bathroom is way in the back.

The couple are great local connoisseurs and can offer great help.

CESAR LABORI BALGA V
Calle Marti #81, entre 24 de Febrero y Coliseo, two blocks from the Malecon and two from Casa del Chocolate. Tel. (21) 64-2507 or 64-3227

Superb, large colonial with a fully-planted patio. Two large bedrooms with an independent entrance.

Rooftop for sunning or dining under the stars. Great cuisine prepared by Cesar himself, a very welcoming young host.

CASA COLONIAL YKIRA MAHIQUEZ V
Calle Maceo #168A, entre Cespédes y Ciro Frias, one block from the cathedral.
Tél: (21) 64-2466 or (21) 64-3569 (neighbours)

Colonial centrally-located house with comfort and atmosphere in an impeccable layout, around a patio with its medicinal plants.

Listed in Petit Futé 2007-2008

JORGE LUIS QUINTERO GUILARTE V
Calle Cespedes 40. e/ Ruben Lopez y Calixto Garcia Tel. (21)

He rents rooms and the whole casa as well, Near the Malecon and the central plaza.

Rates : 20cuc per bedroom per night (2 pers. max.)

Refered by Mireille Tixe-Cobian, July 2003, terresdumonde

VILLA MAGUANA
On Maguana beach, some 20 km west of Baracoa over the bridge of the Toa river (Cuba's largest), on the way to Moa.
This is a less well-kept secret since Cuba Handbook and Fodor's sold out the few cognoscenti a couple of years back.

Even if this little jewel is not a casa particular,it is so "particular", we had to put it in. Gaviota, after a few months of renovations, reopened it on Nov. 15 2006, having added three two-storey buildings to the four bedrooms in the original building. Each new building boasts 4 luxurious double bedrooms on two floors and an enlarged dining room for a total of 16 double bedrooms with modern bathrooms, a/c, fridge, hot water of course and satellite TV reception in each room. We took these pictures a few days before the reopening.

The new room rates in High Season are 75cuc per bedroom including breakfast (or 37,50cuc per person); single occupancy, 60cuc. (5cuc less per room in low season). Meals seem reasonably priced at 7 to 9cuc. No sports activity offered although they may still have swim fins and masks available, we forgot to ask.

Villa Maguana © sogestour

© sogestour

The nice 2-km beach next door may be slated for an all-inclusive resort with an international airport being planned for Moa but Gaviota does not plan anything major in the near future, as this area is still officially part of the Alejandro de Humboldt UNESCO World Heritage Site.

So, enjoy this pretty well-done expansion for the moment : it's still a great value for the dollar for those who want to be away from it all.

Tel. (21) 64-5165 Visa and Mastercard accepted. Main res office is in the Porto Santo Hotel of Baracoa (21) 64-5339 castillo @enet.cu

A little slide show, located on our French-version site.
Don't get lost, mileage may vary, batteries not included.

Updated 02.01.2009