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Small towns with one or two casas; places off the beaten path;
one-ofs. Click name to reach section.
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SAN DIEGO DE LOS BAÑOS Some 20 km's north of the autopista (at km marker 102) and some distance north of the entrance of Parque La Guira, between Soroa and Pinar del Rio, one can find this lovely village nested in rolling hills. Some 15 km (9 miles) west of here is the much-visited Cueva de los Portales where the Che had his HQ during the 1962 missile crisis. Photos. San Diego had a golden era when its thermal and curative baths (baños) — discovered in 1632 — were fully exploited. Today, the place is rather neglected by authorities which have to rebuild public services and replant crops destroyed by hurricane Ike (September 2008). The town still shows quiet country charm in its small central park. It's about 133 km west of La Habana. SEE.KNOW.DO • Regional map here. • Map of the Guahanacabibes Park here • Gaviota page on Maria la Gorda southwest of here • Villa Cabo de San Antonio on westernmost tip of Cuba here |
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 The thermal baths buildings, deserted © sogestour. Inaugurated in 1951, they have been closed for a while, awaiting funds to entirely renovate and decontaminate. Still available on request, body massages for 13cuc/hour. Bassins and wading pools are empty; night watchman sleeps on reception desk, maybe waiting for a phone call (48) 54-8880 |
 Hotel Union, once a lovely complement to the baths is now used for local housing. The Hotel Mirador (1949) tel (48) 54-8866 remains the tourists' other option with a nice restaurant : however, as in other empty Cuban budget hotels, the poolside music is annoyingly loud. © sogestour |
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 Calle 29 goes up from the baths and passes in front of Hotel Union (yellow facade) © sogestour •[• Going down the 29 © sogestour |
 Parque La Guira is a few kilometers away and spreads over 22 000 hectares of the original Hacienda Cortina. Its forests are home to many endemic species such as the creole stag which was on the endangered species list. Freshwater fishing (carp, trout) is an added attraction there, as is the original owners' casa which featured two pagodas filled with Chinese and Japanese art. |
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VILLA JULIO y CARY Calle 29, No. 4009, entre 40 y 42, facing small park and straight across from the thermal baths. Tel. (48) 54-8037 Lovely retired couple rents fromt their large open patio one bedroom with its own private bathroom. Julio, Caridad and us made a list of local freshwater fish : trucha (trout), aclaria, amura, tenca, tilapia and carpa china. Bon appétit ! Rates 20cuc per night (2 adults max.); meals 8cuc. Other casa in town CARLOS GONZALEZ Calle 21, by the local beisbol stadium — One a/c bedroom with private bath.  |
 Mouseover for bedroom © sogestour |
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PLAYA BARACOA Playa Baracoa is a village in the Bauta municipio (pop. 36,500), 27 km west of La Habana. It's not longer than three blocks and maybe 2 km long. The area is site of the small airport (code UPB) handling Aerogaviota flights to/from Cayo Largo's all-inclusive resorts (east of Isla de la Juventud). Many young foreigners know of this beach because they attend courses at the Escuela Latinoamericana de Medicina (ELAM) nearby in the Santa Fe sector of La Habana. For the Habaneros of the west part of the capital (Miramar, Playa, Cubanacan, Flores, etc) it's the local beach. Hence, during torrid summers, it's packed ! Cuban workers on vacation stay at its basico Campismo Victoria with 4-bed cabañas renting for 15 cuc a night. There are some restaurants (Restorante El Yunque serves grilled meats) and bars; locally, one can move around on bicitaxis. More info aqui. PLAYA SALADO This is one of the rare beaches — 3 km west of Playa Baracoa and more or less 29 km from Havana — on this rocky coast which is mostly not "bathable" at all. This stretch of rare sandy beach in summer is a very popular spot with its go-kart track Circuito Cocomar [1200-meter long, 5cuc for 10 mins] and the local [fully-packed with hot and deliciously-sweaty, adrenaline-pumped gyrating bodies of the regional and international juventud] discoteca, the Chrismic. Otherwise, 'tis a fave spot for the tour operators who sell scuba diving one-day excursions for Havana hotel guests : they have 15 dive sites to explore with — some claim — 300 species of fish to admire leaving from Centro de Buceo Blue Reef which aslo offers night dives and catamaran rentals. Nearby lodging can be had at newly-renovated (huge damages caused by hurricanes and sea salt and north winds) by Venezuelan partner Petrocasas building 40 new cabanas at Villa Cocomar (tennis courts, bar, large swimming pool); rates 50 sglb, 60cuc dblb per nite tel 47/37-8293. Until lodging renovations are completed, day passes (Pasadias) are sold for 15cuc per person. |
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OLIVIA y JUAN DANIEL RODRIGUEZ V Avenida Tercera (3ra) A, No. 14433, entre 144 y 146. Tel. (7) 680-6321 or 47-37-8231 Playa Baracoa  " Olivia is a lovely hostess and a good cook. Her courtyard with its iron cast table under the bougainvillea tree was wonderfully peaceful and a great welcome after a long day's ride. Her rooms (one with kitchenette and private entrance) are very clean and have air conditioning. " Referenced by Kate Humble for Cuba by bike 2006 |
 Bouganvillier on patio at Olivia & Juan Daniel's © Cuba by bike 2006 •]• Mouseover for regional mapr |
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MANUEL y NORALES V Calle 166 #354 Playa Baracoa Cellular (5) 292-7028 Some say the best viewpoints in the village can be had from the rooftop apartment on third floor of this casa where two terraces can be enjoyed by travellers. The young couple can get along in Ingles. Referenced by Chris Brown known as Gringo Loco |
 Avenida Mar goes by the sea, it's a no-brainer © Bagheia, flickr |
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CASA DE SUZY V Avenida Primera (1ra) y Mar #16609 at the western end of Playa Baracoa. Tel. (7) 209-3642 Travellers can rent this two-bedroom casa with its shaded terrace terrace in the rear overlooking the local freshwater stream meeting the ocean. Large bathroom, complete kitchen, living and dining area; family across the calle can supply a phone. Referenced by Chris Brown known as Gringo Loco |
 Summertime and jam-packing is easy : no shade except under one of — maybe — three trees © Jorge000, flickr |
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 A space in the shade to enjoy a cool Cristal or Bucanero — away for the burning sand © juan carlos almaguer, flickr |
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CABAÑAS This village also called Cabana is neighbour of the town of A.C. Sandino and really at the limit of Provincia La Habana near that of Pinar del Rio; it's 25 km west of Mariel or 15 k from the autopista at the Cayajabos exit. |
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VILLA LUIS MONTESINOS V Calle 26, No 4714, entre 47 y 49 in tiny Cabañas or Cabana "At the time we cycled here in 2006, this was the only casa between Playa Baracoa close to Havana and Playa La Mulata on the coast in Pinar del Rio. Lovely big shaded garden with a few small farm animals roaming around. Wonderful for getting out of the sun." Referenced by Kate Humble for Cuba by bike 2006 |
 Chilling chez Luis in Cabaña © Cuba by bike 2006 |
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PLAYA LA MULATA It's about 40 km from the autopista central (by way of Soroa) or 25 km west of Bahia Honda, 26 km east of La Palma or 54 km from Viñales. |
 Circuit & suggested itineraries : Oeste |
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VILLA JOSÉ OTAÑO y MARIA V Playa La Mulata is some 20 km east of La Palma and 200 m north of the main road. Tél. (7) 66-8474 "Jose y Maria are good people. Maria is also a good cook who prepared the best fish we had in Cuba. Playa La Mulata was a nice sleepy place to get off the bike and spend a day or two wandering aimlessly." Referenced by Kate Humble for Cuba by bike 2006 |
 Reading on the veranda at Jose y Maria's © Cuba by bike 2006 |
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PLAYA LA ALTURA It's on the province of Pinar del Rio's north coast, about 57 km from Las Terrazas, 20 km west of Bahia Honda and 37 km east of Palma Rubia - departure dock for Cayo Levisa. Locate on this map |
Circuit & suggested itineraries : Oeste |
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ABELLA HOSPEDAJE V Playa La Altura Off the beach and overlooking the playa, Abella (spelled with a bee...;) and her family rent one bedroom with ac and private bathroom. No known fone, Joan. |
 Abella Hospedaje © Robin Thom, flickr.com •]• Appetizing meal from busy body Abella |
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PALMA RUBIA CAYO LEVISA & CAYO PARAISO Cayos (keys or small flat islands) offshore, some 160km west of La Habana or 60 from Soroa, located near the access town of Palma Rubia (35 km west of Bahia Honda), between the small towns of Manuel Sanguily and Las Pozas. Hyper-slow ferry charges 20cuc per person for a one-day (9h-15h), excursion to Cayo Levisa including lunch. Apart from Cayo Levisa, there are one-day 25cuc excursions to Cayo Paraiso 10 km northwest : only a shack, a bar & grill — by a bust of Papa Hemingway, who "discovered" the cayo in the 40's. Not to be confused with playa Paraiso located on Cayo Largo, way south of Cuba. Snorkel & palms will cost you 5cuc more. Check with a Cubanacan office. GulfBase link here. SEE.KNOW.DO • Regional map here. • Map of the Guahanacabibes Park here • Gaviota page on Maria la Gorda southwest of here • Villa Cabo de San Antonio on westernmost tip of Cuba here |
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MARIA y ANTONIO V Carretera Palma Rubia, 2km from the dock of the Volvo-powered slow boat to Cayo Levisa. No phone known, Joan. A good walking distance to the bar and customs-checked marina, this bucolic haven is what's called for if you missed the 10-15:00 hrs excursion to the cayo. Maria's cuisine is to be remembered, the sea being so near... Everything else is fresh, this is farmland. Rates : 20cuc for room for night (2 pers. max.) |
 Typical 110cuc per day bungalow on Levisa © sogestour |
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BAHIA HONDA This lovely large bay (bahia) is no doubt hidden (honda) as it was when pirates and corsarios navigated the seas west of the (then) capital of the Americas. On Punta Piedra from where one has unimpeded and unforgettable views, there is only a small desperately run-down budget state hotel and a ranchon (thatched roofed) ranchon with a restaurant (panoramic, below). The government has long-term plans (in 2009) to invest massively (no doubt with foreign input) into four large resorts including at least two golf courses. This coast town (albeit 1 km from water) is only 28 km northwest of Las Terrazas; 36 km east of the launch to Cayo Levisa near Palma Rubia; 30 k's from the autoroute which links Pinar del Rio to La Habana. Pop. 45,000 (municipio) SEE.KNOW.DO • Cuba and Raul's plans for golf - blog article here • Regional map here. • Our page on Guanahacabibes here • Gaviota page on Maria la Gorda southwest of here • Villa Cabo de San Antonio on westernmost tip of Cuba here |
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 © robin thom, panoramio |
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VILLA VIVI PANDIELLO V Calle 32, no 1920, entre 19 y 21, facing the local Casa de la Cultura. Tel. (86) 66-82-00 A cyclist says the lady is grumpy and the food is not better; another says their couple were had and so on ... If you find something better, let us know. |
 The camino which goes down to the bahia © Robin Thom, panoramio |
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SANDINO 68km southwest of Pinar del Rio, on the way to Maria La Gorda (scuba divers paradise of the West), another 75km away : in other words, the halfway point between Pinar and Maria La Gorda. Got that right ! It is a town borne of sadness and frustration as this was the destination of the early Revolucion's deportee ("if you're not with the Revolucion, you're against it") program. Those who had been denounced as (or found guilty of) having aided the counter-revolutionnaries in the Escambray mountains (near Trinidad) in the early Sixties were deprived of their homes, kicked out of the Sancti Spiritus province to end up here, "way out in the boondocks". Nowhere, really. SEE.KNOW.DO • Casa de cultura Leonel Rugama • Map of the Guahanacabibes Park here • Gaviota page on Maria la Gorda (66 km southwest of) here • Villa Cabo de San Antonio on westernmost tip of Cuba here |
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MOTEL ALEXIS Carmen Cordero Zona L 33, one block east of the main road that runs through Sandino Tel. (48) 42-3282 or 42-3557 Carmen, the next-door neighbour and an experienced casa owner herself, took over when Alexis and Nelyda went to live abroad. This casa — the town's best-known — is your best overnight bet if you're making the long trip to Playa Maria La Gorda or Cabo San Antonio Carmen rents one large bedroom with private entrance on the side; aircon and private bathroom. If need be, there is a smaller bedroom in front which can share the bathroom. Rates : 20cuc for room for night (2 pers. max.) |
 The facade at Carmen's •]• Our memorable diner © sogestour |
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MOTEL SUNSO y GINA Zona O - Casa 22 Tel. (48) 42-3131 If you're really in a bind and have to sleep in this town — and Carmen's place is full and her friends' as well, then, only then, look for this casa belonging to the guy who chases after travellers already commited elsewhere. The couple rents two basic bedrooms each with private bath and ac; mini patios, dining area, etc. Yada, yada, yada. Rates : 25cuc per bedroom for night (2 pers. max.) |
![Sandino Sunso y Gina La facade •]• Une chambre © sogestour](http://www.particuba.net/villes/uniques/sandino/SandinoSunso1.jpg) The facade •]• Patio & velo © sogestour |
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SANTA LUCIA - CAYO JUTIAS There are about 16 km between the village of Santa Lucia and the installations on Playa Jutias (reconstructed restaurant and bar under a thatch; washrooms; no showers — which is a bummer) all on the cayo of the same name, beyond the pay toll gate. The village rather anonymous is all hills (not to be taken for Santa Lucia near Guardalavaca at the other end of the island). One can go on driving (as we did in 2009) west along the coast road but it's so full of holes, it becomes a true challenge (too far to tuen back, etc) to get to lovely Mantua — then Sandino, Maria la Gorda and the extreme west of Cuba. From here, Viñales is 60 km away, on the other side of the ridge and Minas de Matahambre. Regional map here. |
Circuit & suggested itineraries : Oeste |
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CASA DE MARY V Luis Enrique Sanchez-Arce Mary's son, Luis Enrique was studying computers in La Habana back in 2002 and was trying to get his mother the rental licence. His brother and sister-in-law lived in the house. |
 Lighthouse Cayo Jutias © sogestour |
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PASACABALLO - MILPAS 22km from the city of Cienfuegos, passed the famous Playa Rancho Luna and Villa Rancho Luna beach resort hotels, passing by the turnoff to El Jardín de Los Botánicos, a botanical garden once run by Harvard University with 1,400 species of trees. A small passenger ferry — almost in front of Hotel Pasacaballo — runs from Pasacaballo to Nuestra Señora de los Ángeles de Jagua or Castillo de Jagua (a fortress which can be visited) where you can get off and board the larger ferry to the port in the city of Cienfuegos. |
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VILLA SERENA Aleixis Marin and his mother Arai At the end of the road, passed Rancho Luna and the lighthouse and the finca below. Passed the guagua bus stop and the ferry dock for Castillo de Jagua across the strait. Passed the large Hotel Pasacaballo, you arrive in a 10-casa caserio named Milpas Can't miss it, it's at the end of the road. Maybe 30 people live here. Tel. (43) 54-8039 Aleixis and Arai rent two basically-furnished and modest air-conditioned bedrooms with one bathroom. All three meals can be served (imagine all the sea delights) on the balcony, terrace under the large tree or the parasol by the water. Solitude guaranteed, impeccable vistas of the huge bahia at your feet. Rates : 25cuc per night per bedroom (2 adults max.) |
Mouseover: Google map of bay and location.  Click for more. © sogestour |
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FINCA LOS COLORADOS V José Piñeiro, son of Cienfuegos casa owner Jorge Pineiro Carretera Rancho Luna-Pasacaballo #18, about 100 meters passed Faro (lighthouse) Luna and 1km from Rancho Luna beach. Tel. (43) 54-8044 - Other photos here. "It is still a very nice place to stay. The owner speaks very good English and the food is very good. The casa is near the lighthouse, it is a windy spot, so less mosquitoes and good temperatures." Jaap Willem Bakker and Yvon Smeets, the Netherlands 080509 "This place is more like a tiny inn than an ordinary casa particular. Jorge speaks English very well. There are guestrooms in the house and also in a charming villa next door. Dining is either indoors or on a terrace under trellises overlooking the sea. The food is excellent, possibly the best of any casa we have visited." Walter Smith, bicyclingcuba.com, 2003 |
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| GUÀIMARO This town now has its own page. Click logo below.  |
AMANCIO
This town now has its own page. Click logo below.  |
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SANTA CRUZ DEL NORTE 45km west of Matanzas, on the sea coast. Although an industrial center (paper and cigar factories, a large power plant and a center for oil fields), the town harbours a distinct and hospitable "village" feeling. It boasts the oldest rum factory in Cuba, Ronera Santa Cruz, started by the Arrechabala family in 1878. |
Circuit & suggested itineraries : Centro |
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DR. LUIS y NELIE V In reparto El Frayle, 2 km from Playa Jibacoa and 4 km from town centre. Other beaches nearby : rocky Literal Norte, El Abra and Arroyo Bermejo. Relatively new house with two bedrooms, a living room, shared bathroom and kitchen. |
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FLORIDA 40km west of Camaguey and 70 km east of Ciego de Avila. Viazul bus routes always make a stop for a sandwich lunch at the always empty Hotel Florida with its inviting swimming pool. |
 Circuit & suggested itineraries : Oriente |
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IDALIA SURI CARBONEL V Calle Lambarri 508, entre Carretera Central y Moncada Tel. (32) 51-5373 "I've stayed here five times and the rooms are always very clean with all modern comforts. Family is great. Huge breakfasts for 2cuc and dinners at very low prices." Rates : 20cuc for bedroom for night (2 adults max.) Suggested by Bruno on terresdumonde. |
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El CASTILLITO V Familia Hernandez Avila Calle Fernando de Zayas 425, entre Jesús y Avellaneda Tel. (32) 51-6433 " In this so-called little castle surrounded by cocoa plants, mangos, palm trees and other greens, an attentive couple rents two comfortable double rooms on the first floor with air conditioning and private bathrooms. " The casa also boasts two roof terraces and a patio colonial, a living room (TV, DVD), dining room and carports. 110/220 volts, Internet. " Rates : 20cuc per bedroom per night (2 adults max.) Breakfast, 3; lunch 5, dinner 6-10cuc. |
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GUARDALAVACA Or just about... The huge beach resorts which dot its long white beaches some 60km northeast of Holguin attract tourists looking for all-inclusive paradisos. But no casas for rent. On the beach. The one casa below is the closest, some 6km west on the way to Banes. The public beach of Guadalajara with its usual souvenir kiosks, restaurants attract some tourists looking for easy chicas, available 24 hours per night. See our Guardalavaca page for mapped details — here. |
 Circuit & suggested itineraries : Oriente |
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VILLA LA ESCONDIDA Alberto Martinez In Cañadon, past Cuatro Caminos, some 6km from Guardalavaca on the way to Banes. Tel. (24) 41-9174 Two aircon bedrooms in the back patio in an separate building; each with private small bathroom; dining room and living room. Alas, the short dirt road leading and in front of the casa, was bordered with trash when we went for pictures. Alberto must have taken care of it by now ... This casa is also on our Banes page. |
 Mouseover for living room, hold-click for one bedroom © sogestour |
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COJIMAR It's about 11 km from La Habana and also 11 km from Playas del Este and Guanabo or two k's from the Via Blanca highway which runs from Old Havana, past the tunnel and the huge Estadio Panamericano along the sea between the capital and Matanzas. See a detailed map here. The town was made world-famous by Ernest Hemingway's "The old man and the sea". The Nobel Prize winner anchored his boat, the Pilar in its sheltered bay in the 40's and 50's; his captain, Gregorio Fuentes lived on calle 98 (photo at right) to the age of 104 in 2002 No local beach, just La Terraza's fine daiquiris, mojitos and great seafood and a view of the small bahia. Still open, La Terracita, Calle Villanueva e/ Concha y Pezuela tel (7) 765-7118 is a fine local food venue; so is the Allegro, ave 78, e/ 5C y 5D for pizzas and Italian fare. It's located on busy avenida 78 near the Cadeca (exchange), bank, local pharmacy and medical center. These paladars might still be open : Yemaya on calle 98 No. 224 and Claro de Luna on the bay, 3 blocks from the Hemingway monument. Known in the area : the Torreon (below : official name Fuerte de Cojimar is and always was a real military outpost since its construction by the Brits in 1762)); a mini-golf (go for it) and this edificio (below) abandonado which was maybe Hotel Campoamor during hemingway's time. N.B. Do not confuse the town with Villas Cojimar located on Cayo Guillermo, 485 km east of here. |
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 Manfred's girl is looking at the Fuerte de Cojimar, named the Torreon (a military outpost still today) from the Malecon © Manfred panoramio.com |
 This is not Alejandro's place, but Papa Hemingway's local drinking spot, La Terraza. It is a hugely popular bus-tour stop and a fine seafood restaurant. © JBouts, panoramio |
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 Dutch TV host Lien Van De Kelder under Hemingway's bust in the glorieta honouring Papa, near the Torreon during her 2008 show on Cuba • source : youtube |
 If it's Hemingway's casa you are looking for, you have to go to San Francisco de Paula (11 km southeast of La Habana, 17 from here) where you will find the museum occupying his house "lookout farm", Finca Vigia. Our page en français here. © Dufaux/Malès, panoramio. Great photos of Hemingway's Havana by Robin Thom on Flickr |
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CASA FERREIRO Alejandro y Fara Ferreiro Calle E - Los Pinos #315, entre 29 y 30. Have a small panoramic view of the bay here. Tel. (7) 765-0876 A large and lovely casa for rent which boasts an apartment-like installation with one bedroom, bathroom, living and dining area and a large terrace. Suggested by El Cubanito Suizo on kubaforen.de 090109 and Cuba Cycling from Lonely Planet 2002 and BC journalist (Canada) Ulrike Rodrigues |
 The veranda at Ferreiro's © Ulrike Rodrigues, cyclist |
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TEODORO ZIMMERMAN V Calle E - Los Pinos #319, entre 29 y 30 Tel. (7) 765-0914 — Rents a quite original small one-bedroom casa with its aircon bedroom and ensuite shower room for 25cuc per night. The owner habla el Ingles. VILLA LENNON - SONIA y JOAQUIN V Calle E - Los Pinos #302, entre 27 y 28 Tel. (7) 765-0557 — Couple rents mini-apart with its own private entrance, one aircon bedroom, private bath, 20-25cuc per night ARSENIO RIVAS V Calle Espartero (calle 27) #98, e/Maceo y Los Pinos Tel. (7) 765-2962 — This gentleman rents one upstairs mini unit with kitchen and one aircon bedroom with ensuite bathroom for 20cuc la noche. |
 From the Torreon, one can see the bay and the monument to Hemingway who docked his Pilar, manned by Gregorio Fuentes (The Old Man and The Sea) © Jotraveller |
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CASA VICKY V Vicky y René Calle F #509, entre 28 y 29 Tel. (7) 766-0108 Vicky rents two aircon bedrooms with shared bathroom; dining and living rooms, large partially shaded patio; fully-equiped kitchen. Private parking available. |
 Vicky's nice patio is shaded by the front orange wall on street © |
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VILLA ESTRELLA V Calle Martí 460, entre 32 y 33 Tel. (7) 765-2975 Raquel rents separately or in whole a large casa with three bedrooms, two bathrooms a newly-appointed kitchen adn a swimming pool. One of the bedrooms has its own bathroom ensuite; each has a/c, phone, tv and stereo unit; meals and laundry available. |
 © theperfect.com casas |
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VILLA AZUL V Calle Real 12, corner calle Rita, ideal to see the sea. Tel. (7) 766-8921 Large casa made more attractive by its rare location overlooking el mar. Upstairs two bedrooms both ac and both with its own ensuite bathroom. Unobstructed views of the sea from the terrace; owners offer scuba outings including equipment for some 30 cuc per person; parking on premises. Rates : 30cuc per bedroom per night (2 adults max.); breakfasts 5, dinners 12cuc Also in the neighbourhood: CASA HOSTAL MARLINS V Calle Real 128A, e/Santo Domingo y Chacon Tel. (7) 765-3261 cell (5) 891-4899 — Rents an upstairs appt with kitchenette, mini-patio, aircon bedroom with ensuite bath; sun spot on roof. Rates : 20-25cuc per noche (2 adultes max.) |
 Travellers cannot come to Cojimar without making at least one top at La Terraza to look for some of the spirit of the second best-know Ernest in Cuba, Hemingway (Papa for his friends) © Robin Thom, panoramio |
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Content & photos © sogestour Updated |
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