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![Map of Park — Click to enlarge •]• Seaside vegetation in Punta Holandès © sogestour](http://www.particuba.net/villes/guanahacabibes/images/MapaParque720.jpg) |
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| There are no less than 121,572 hectares in the Peninsula de Guanahacabibes Biosphere Reserve which includes a 39,901 hectare national park since 2001. Its name is Parque Nacional Península de Guanahacabibes and it encompasses two natural reserves created in 1963, Cabo Corrientes and El Veral. The aboriginal name comes in at least three spellings : Guanacabibes, Guanacahibes or even Guanahatabibes which all mean "place where the iguanas lived". It's one of the Cuban places where only the sun marks the time, where no one rushes, where some live half-dressed, no shoes and where almost every rock, nook and cranny has a story to tell, especially since one remembers it was on the path of the ships which carried the stolen riches from pre-Columbus America to a Spain which was run by christian extremists. For most of these colonial ships, going from the "New World" to Old Europe meant sailing by the peninsula where pirates awaited — not to beg or borrow but to steal the whole loot of gold, silver and stones. THE PORTAL To get here from Pinar del Rio, one passes through lovely scenery on the "carretera Panamericana" as it was planned to be renamed by Batista cronies who wanted to give the main Central American highway an extension through Cuba. That idea went out the door in 59 but the tobacco fields, the world-famous Vuelta Abajo has remained, sparsed by drying installations on lovely green carpets. Slowly the cattle works the land which gives rice, grains and greens to feed guajiros, tabacaleros and their families who have moved from bohios to casas de mamposteria — the wooden shack of yesteryear giving way to the cement house. GETTING HERE IS HALF THE FUN Barely 22 kilometers (13 miles) south of the town of Pinar del Rio, travellers cross San Juan y Martinez (superb village and HQ of the tabaco leaf) then Sabalo; here they are at the entrance of Parque nacional de Guanahacabibes spreading where the Caribbean Sea meets the Yucatan Strait. The road then leads to the regional townshi (municipio) of Sandino which starts at the town named Isabel Rubio. From there, one has a choice : either go straight west through the villages of Sandino, La Fe (pop. 600, once a port and sawmill for wood cut in Cabo San Antonio; in 1935-40, a US seaplane base) to Manuel Lazo, a total of 40 km. Or do like no one else does — head to the unknown — and aim south to bypass Sandino to another fork, a right turn towards Sitio de Santa Barbara on to Cortés 18 km south; then through La Conchita, La Grifa, Babineyes (maybe a 25-km return detour to La Furnia, La Yana and Cabo Francès ?) then Covadonga and Las Martinas to end up in Manuel Lazo, a total of 52 km. From here, the two roads join to La Bajada some 137 km southwest of Pinar del Rio and 281 km de La Habana. Here travellers find a National Park Control Point with its large wall map, guides and some local fishermen : the Bay of Corrientes stretches ahead. This is where one chooses to either : • turn left and ride this lovely partially-shaded 14 km road along the bay (on passenger side) to Maria la Gorda. • or go straight ahead on a 60-km lonely but superb road all the way to the end of Cuba at the Roncali lighthouse in Cabo San Antonio — the sea is on the left and there is nothing to see (no services, buildings, nada) but nature. The road was finished with tar on gravel in January 2009. THERE'S MORE Geographically speaking, the peninsula's nature stretches north. From the town of Sandino, one can ride to Punta Colorada a point eroded by centuries of sea and wind which advances on the Bay of Guadiana while splitting the Garnacha cove from the Picado cove on its south side; there is a 1-km beach hugely popular in summer, deserted in winter called Playa Colorada (altogether some 33 km from the town of Sandino). From this spot, one has an absolutely fabulous and totally unique view unlike any other in the Caribbean : the north coast of the Peninsula de Guanahacabibes. While in this area, closer to Sandino, there is a large water reserve and freshwater lake with a 3 sq mi area named Laguna Grande. Trout fishing, horseback riding and even hunting in nearby El Limon reserve can be organized through the Izlazul property on the lake side.
LOCATION Exactly : 21º 58’ latitude North and 84º 30’ longitude West. Limits : North, the gulf of Guanahacabibes and the townships of Mantua and Guane; East, the cove of Cortés and the port of Guane; South, the Caribbean Sea; West, the Yucatán Straight Served by a river, the Cuyaguateje at its eastern end, its northern limit the Cordillera of Guaniguanico in the summits (Alturas) of Pizarras del Sur where mostly pine trees (male and female) abound : the Pino Macho (Pinus caribaea Morel) and the Pino Hembra (Pinus tropicalis Moric). Further, going northwest, a wall of limestone makes up the Sierra de Paso Real and on the other side, the Sierra de Guane. AREA, POPULATION Its territory covers some 1711,2 km2 where some 40,314 Cubans live in a ratio of 24 residents per Km2; among them 22,510 or 55.83% live in communities. Villages with more than 1,000 people : Sandino (admin town), Manuel Lazo, Las Martinas and Cortés. TRANSPORTATION Trains from La Habana "El Lechero" (the Milk Run #225) leaves La Habana at 22h05 every 2nd day arriving Pinar del Rio at 03h50 then overnight and get a 60cuc cab ride here; returns (#224) leaves Pinar del Rio at 09h45 arriving Havana at 15h30. Viazul busses leave at 09h00, 12h40 and 14h20 daily from Havana and arrive Pinar del Rio at 12h00, 15h20, 16h35 Sked here. Source : Pedro Luis Hernandez Perez, Grupo Espeleologico Guaniguanico, Pinar del Rio dans El Explorador + www.italia-cuba.speleo.it |
ENJOY THE PENINSULA WHILE IT LASTS : Punta Colorada Golf and Marina - It could boast no less than seven 18-hole golf courses, 5 hotels, etc on 10,000 acres and 19 miles of coast including a cruise ship terminal and hundreds of slips for luxury yachts. Development project presented on Vimeo since Feb 2, 2012.  Welcome sign at La Bajada and its park management office : here one chooses to follow the peninsula straight to Faro Roncali in Cabo San Antonio 60 km ahead or turn left and go for the 14 km leading to Maria la Gorda. © Embajada de Francia  The road going to the very end of Cuba stretches for over 60 km from La Bajada, along deserted beaches (as is the whole peninsula, Ursula !). These playas (windy with strong undercurrents) are named Antonio, Perjuicio and La Barca, then Punta Holandès, places named Caleta Larga and Los Cayuelos, then the lighthouse named Roncali and its rather new Villas Cabo San Antonio and the end is at Punta Cajon (office, dock and marina). Detailed map here © laurha, flickr.com  From Punta del Holandès, the seaside vegetation is unique and impressive (as in panoramic photo on top of page); alas as elsewhere on this planet, trash from transport and (yes...) leisure boats abound on shore © Embajada de Francia  Playa Maria la Gorda  Playa Maria la Gorda and its wave breakers ©  One of those only-found-here current breakers ©  Maria la Gorda resort, a breaker and one of two diver transporters, this one named after the nearby port where it was built, La Coloma © partwish, picasa  In the middle of nowhere, a langosta (lobster) midway house, solar-powered © henk.jamin, flickr.com  Maria la Gorda, romantic at dusk or dawn © parwish on picasa  Dive area map of Cuba, Maria la Gorda being one of zee most famous © |
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| La Habana (Prensa Latina) — Some 167 museologists from 12 countries noted the high value of Cuba's underwater archeology, due to its unprecedented capacity to preserve the submerged cultural and patrimonial wealth at the Fourth Ibero-American Meeting of Museums and Historic Centers in Havana in May 2007. The frigate Arrow, from which 2,000 pieces of English chinaware were recovered, and the brigantine Ines de Soto, which carried 33,000 of the first coins minted in the Americas, both from the 16th century, are examples of the wealth resting in the Caribbean's sea bottoms. "We have 1,341 references of shipwrecks documented by historians, but just 130 have been discovered over the past 20 years, said Lopez, who has more than three decades' experiences as an archeologist. Adverse weather conditions and constant attacks by corsairs and pirates in the Caribbean, in addition to bad sailing conditions in the 16th century, contributed to a large number of shipwrecks off Cuban coasts. Lopez noted Carisub, Cuba's non-lucrative interest in archeology, backed by prominent personalities like French oceanographer Jacques Cousteau (1910-1997), who worked with Cuban scientists for several years. Salvage operations carried out in the 1970s by Carisub were recorded in photos, films and videos by renowned filmmakers such as Fernando Perez (Havana Suite) and Rogelio Paris (Caravan). Source |
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BIRDS, LOCAL FAUNA & CAVES
Among flying species in the area : the Cartacuba, Tocororo (Cuban Trogon), Sijú platanero (Cuban Pygmy-Owl), Zunzuncito (Bee Hummingbird), some of which use a migratory corridor along with some 50 other species plying the north-south routes (like the snowbirds they are) stopping for food and drink in coastal wet areas and marshes and adopting Cuban winters — just like the humans they entertain during Canadian summers. Guanahacabibes is also the home of 35 species of reptiles and the habitat of many iguanas and other reptiles. Geolocally speaking, the coral reef is very-well conserved thanks to two protected zones : El Veral and Cabo Corrientes. There are dry forests on the peninsula, sometimes humid with mangroves, some prairie-like land, rocky areas, some dunes and many coral reefs. There are many limestone land masses pierced with many caves where finds of archeological importance are continually effected by local authorities. Unique to Cuba, the marmot-like Jutía Conga (Capromys pilorides) as well as the Cuban Boa and Iguana are present; unique (endemic) plants also abound. The National park is vital to numerous migratory species thanks to its proximity to the Yucatan Peninsula. In a sector where sand and mangroves are close to each other, the forests near Maria la Gorda harbour the Great Lizard-Cuckoo (Coccyzus merlini), the Ruddy Quail-Dove (Geotrygon montana), the Yellow-headed Warbler (Teretistris fernandinae) and the Giant Kingbird. Some 500 meters from the hotel resort, there are two interesting water spots where these can be seen : the Charadrius vociferus is a regular migrator. Among some endemic warblers observed locally : the Archilochus colubris in migration and the Grey-faced Quail-Dove (Geotrygon caniceps). Source : ornithomedia.com |
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 HEED THE HINTS IN THIS FINE PRINT ::: Make sure that in your first email or phone call you specify that you want to book a room in that particular casa and that you will reconfirm your booking on arrival in Cuba. Unless you only want a room in any house which may be of the same quality, not the specific casa you booked through photos on these websites ::: So as to not abandon expecting owners with empty rooms, reconfirm (or call ahead to cancel) your booking by phone as soon as you can after arriving in Cuba ::: Please write or phone a casa owner to cancel a booking. As late as it may seem, it allows them a chance to rebook. ::: Children under the age of 16 may share a bedroom with adults for free. Specify the child's age when booking. ::: Since October 2010, maximum bedroom capacity is not limited to two adults ::: Also, large casas are not limited to renting only two bedrooms per night. ::: At the end of the casa name, the V signals the casa was suggested by travelers or owners but not verified by the website staff. If you try it and like it, write us about it. ::: Unless otherwise mentioned, the average room rates and service prices are : 20-25cuc per bedroom per night [up to 40+ for 4 in a room]; breakfasts 3-5cuc, dinners 7-10cuc. ::: Note : monthly taxes have increased 15-50% for owners; this may be reflected on the aforementioned rates. ::: Any casa particular anywhere in Cuba must have a hot water shower, otherwise it cannot have a permit to rent. ::: On certain occasions in the past year, overbooking may have inadvertently hurt some travellers, some casa owners and some webmasters more than would appear and this prompted this webmaster to overreact by generalizing about individual realities; having hurt most casa owners, this webmaestro's self-righteous attitude [all action, no talk] was uncalled for. Lo siento mucho I am truly sorry and apologies given, Marcos 070112 ::: Please share your Complaints, comments & suggestions webmaster [@]cubacasas.net |
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 BOOK BY EMAIL : Click on logo to open a message addressed to that casa in your email application; or right-click to copy address showing at bottom of browser window. Spanish vocabulary here. Google translate here.  BOOK BY PHONE • From Canada and the USA : 011 53 (add phone # preceded by 48 for Sandino) • From Europe, Great Britain, Scandinavia and Mexico : 00 53 (add phone # preceded by 48 for Sandino) HOW TO DIAL A CUBAN PHONE NUMBER HERE |
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MOTEL ALEXIS Carmen Cordero Zona L 33, one block east of the main road that runs through Sandino Tel. (48) 42-3282 or 42-3557 Carmen, the ex next-door neighbour and an experienced casa owner herself, took over when Alexis and Nelyda went to live abroad. This casa — the town's best-known — is your best overnight bet if you're making the long trip to Playa Maria La Gorda or Cabo San Antonio Carmen rents one large bedroom with private entrance on the side; aircon and private bathroom. If need be, there is a smaller bedroom in front which can share the bathroom. Rates : 20cuc for room for night (2 pers. max.) |
 In Sandino, Carmen's casa particular •]• Our memorable dinner © sogestour |
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 Playa Maria La Gorda beach was named for a woman (Fat Maria) who was supposedly abandoned by pirates; she had to sell her body so the story goes. The fine sand stretch is five miles (8 km) long. The seabed here is one of the richest in Cuba in terms of biodiversity and has the largest colony of black coral (Antipathes spp.) in the archipelago. At its 39 scuba-diving sites, you can see gardens of gorgonians, sponges, a long wall with grottoes, abundant marine fauna and artefacts showing that both pirate and merchant ships used to anchor here. |
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| HOTEL & C.I.B. MARIA LA GORDA 35 bedrooms + 20 bungalows sitting on the bay of Corrientes; location 21°49' N, 84°28' W; radio HF 3600, VHF 16 and 19; management by Gaviota; 14 km from Bajada (park admin), 66 km from Sandino, 150 km from Pinar del Rio, 295 from La Habana Lodging is available in bedrooms in the main seaside building — some with sea view or else in one of the more recent 20 bungalows renovated in 2009 located in the back reachable by wooden plankwalks; units are equiped with own private modern bathrooms, hair dryers, direct phone lines, satellite tv and a am-fm radio. Also : mitchen or mini-kitchenette, mini bar, fridge, individually-controllable a/c unit, ceiling fan, balcony or terrace. Available amenities : café, boutiques, bar, laundry service, bike rental, swimming pool. Rates : beachside rooms : 73cuc per bedroom per night including breakfast (as of March 2009); in back, more recent bungalow units rent for 68cuc per night. |
![Maria la Gorda beach units on bahia de Corrientes © efimova, flickr •]• The cabanas behind © gaz, panoramio](http://www.particuba.net/villes/guanahacabibes/images/LaGordaEfimovaFlickr.jpg) Maria la Gorda Hotel beach units on the bay of Corrientes © efimova, flickr •]• The cabanas behind are reached by a path on stilts © gaz, panoramio Centro Internacional de Buceo (C.I.B.) (International scuba diving centre) Scuba Diving Courses under auspices of SSI or CMAS; two boats are used to ferry divers (28 or 12-diver capacities); multilingual diving instructors : español, english, français, russki e italiano; some of the 40 dive sites in detail here |
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The opinion of procrastinatorhater on tripadvisor in June 2009 : « And so to the diving. There are virtually no conditions here, weak tides, no currents, virtually no waves! water temp was 32-34 degrees, and never less than 20m visibility. So all very easy. The reef itself is a wall only 200 metres from the shore. 10-15 metres deep dropping off to 40m+.
The dive guides gave the same English briefing before every dive, but it had no safety aspects at all. The rest of the crew seemed to think that their fishing was more important than the customers diving. The over-enthusiastic guides also poke and prod just about all the sea-life that is left here, and use those annoying "jingle-bell noisy shaker things" to attract everyones attention for the most mundane creature. The guides were not keen to let us leave the group (well, they had never asked any of the divers experience levels!) and were intent that every diver follow their route through numerous swim-thrus and caves, regardless of profile. » The critic is a "seen-it-all, safety-paranoid albeit experienced diver," from what we gather. Caveat emptor. |
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| VILLAS LAGUNA GRANDE 12 cabañas on namesake lake, close to hitherto unknown bay of Guadiana; under the Islazul (low-budget chain) management In a quiet and natural setting, the thatched-roof cabins offer freshness from the sun and rest in a double occupancy room including air-conditioning, a fridge, a private ensuite bathroom, satellite tv The main building installations include a restaurant and dining room, bar and a games room. As this area is for nature lovers, guest can enjoy the lake for fishing or swimming or go for a horse ride or trek along the adjoining parks' trails. |
![Villa Laguna Grande •]• Map of region on click](http://www.particuba.net/villes/guanahacabibes/images/VillaLagunaLotriana.jpg) On the shore of Laguna Grande (8 sq-km lake), Villa Laguna Grande from Islazul : 12 modest and affordable but comfy cabañas; horse riding trout fishing, hunting in the El Limon Reserve •]• Map of the region on click |
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| VILLAS CABO SAN ANTONIO In one of the most deserted spots in Cuba, 16 recently-built modern chalets off the beach (narrow gravel road to marina passes in front); run by Gaviota chain. Australian websurfer Neb said this about getting there in Feb 2008 : "The hotel could not arrange for our transfer from Havana so we took the Viazul bus to Pinar (12cuc) then a taxi — an old rusty Lada! — for the last 200 km for which we had to pay 90cuc!!!!! An adventurous ride! We were told we had been had because others claimes to have paid only 60cuc." |
 The so-named « Villas Cabo San Antonio » opened in 2006 and local cows don't seem to mind © j@b travels, flickr.com |
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| The rest of Neb's comments : PROS: - Remote location, far from everywhere! Absolutely relaxed and peaceful environment. - Well sized villa's, with all mod cons. - Staff all lovely and helpful. CONS: - Killer SANDFLIES! Got >100 bites after my first session at the beach. Take industrial strength protectant, and DO NOT lie directly on the sand. Use the beach chairs, which still does not guarantee you won't get attacked! A BIG problem. - Poor insulation between each side of cabin means you hear everything in the adjoining room in your cabin. - Limited restaurant menu gets boring after ~4 days. Another client Penher said in November 2009 : "Located deep in the Peninsula Guhananacacibes (after a 61km drive — amazing!) Villas Cabo San Antonio is made up of small wooden bungalows which are quite spacious and comfortable. The place is magical and will appeal to hikers and lovers of solitude ... The welcome is friendly, the restaurant is pleasant, and Josvel the waiter attentive. Small downside : no real activity on premises but nothing serious ... Small local game : find the nearest gas station located in the Marina (?) 3km ... once you have found it, you will need to return in reverse (as road is too narrow) which may be the longest drive in reverse of your life ... memorable ! " |
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Content & photos © sogestour except otherwise mentioned  Updated |
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