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| " The Viñales valley is an outstanding karst landscape in which traditional methods of agriculture (notably tobacco growing) have survived unchanged for several centuries. The region also preserves a rich vernacular tradition in its architecture, its crafts, and its music. " (UNESCO) | |||||
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 This charming little village is nestled in the Sierra de los Organos, and was but a settlement during the Spanish colonial era. The mogotes, covered with vegetation were formed through erosion during the jurassic era. Cuban climbers have been joined by colleagues from around the world to tackle these weird mounts. The San Vicente region is spersed with underground caves : among others, Cueva del Indio, Cueva de San Miguel, El Palenque de los Cimarrones and world-renowned Caverna de Santo Tomás — with 50 km of tunnels, it is the largest in the country and second largest on the Continent. Recently discovered, the stupendous caves of nearby Sierra Guasasa where non-profit local org Geda will guide you. (See links). The quiet commercial activity — and large cultural — activity borders the main street, Cisneros, has a few colonial and columned edificios but the majority of dwellings are bungalows. There's a sense of environment protection here like nowhere else in the country. And, most important, little motor traffic. One of this webmaster's must-see places on the island. The hundreds of casas particulares here are most alike : we suggest some of the best below.
POPULATION 26,863 PLAYAS Cayo Jutias (60km), Cayo Levisa (50km) RIVER SWIM In rio Resvaloso near Cueva de la Vaca (ask around, everyone knows, Cubans abound in summer). PALADARES Aguilina Rodriguez Martinez (Nodarse 24A), Valle-Bar Casa Dago RESTAURANTS Bar Las Brisas (Cisneros 96), La Casa de Don Tomás (Cisneros 140), El Palenque de los Cimarrones, La Casa del Veguero, Las Magnolias, La Terrazza of Hotel La Ermita (nice place, tempting pool), Rancho San Vicente (cabins for rent), Vera (Hotel Los Jazmines). EVENINGS Centro Polo Montañez, Casa de la Cultura (both on main square) El Palenque de los Cimarrones (cave outside of town) and three neighboring bars on main street : 3 live bands playing at the same time. Did U say cacofonico ? EXCURSIONS Las Terrazas, departs 7h30, Rancho Curujey, arr. Soroa 11h, returns 15h • Cayo Levisa, departs 8h, returns 19h; including 30 mins. in a very slow boat (at normal speed, should take 8 mins.) By 9-psgr minibus, 25cuc including lunch, 34cuc including fins & mask, 25 more for scuba. Or drive to Palma Rubia, 60km north on the coast and take the 10am or 6pm slow boat, 25cuc pp. including lunch • Maria la Gorda, 25cuc. Book through Havanatur or Cubanacan, beside the libreria (some books in English), facing Parque Marti • Cayo Jutias beach on north coast, 60 km northwest via Minas de Matahambre and scenic mountain road. Access by pedraplen, entry fee 5cuc : just a beach, beer hut. (There used to be a two-storey restaurant, wiped by 2005 hurricane) • Cabo San Antonio : its wooden villas (75$ per night, double), marina, lighthouse, all in a Biosphere Reserve at the extreme very, very end of Cuba, some 200 km from here. Site SERVICES A professional massage ? Yesss ! Ask Onasis Romero Vargas, university teacher and neurological massage specialist. Resides at calle Rafael Trejo #145. Low rates, 15 to 60 mins. Tel. (48) 77-8370 Will go to your casa. • If he's busy, call a colleague masajista : Jesus Ernesto Alfonso (cell) 015 270-6478 • Banco de Credito y Comercio (Cisneros 58) • Cadeca (money exchange, Cisneros 92 Tel 79-6334) • Micar (8) 79-6330 • Havanatur (48) 79-6161 or 79-6262 • Cubanacan (48) 79-639 • Rumbos 79-6339 TRANSPORT Scooters for rent right by the Don Tomas restaurant (see map) on main street. Bus Viazul La Habana (daily 3-hour trip); Pinar del Rio (daily, 40 mins.). OUR RECOMMENDATIONS V = suggested by webbies and travelers. Check in person or by phone. New city phone code is 48 since Nov. 22 2006. Children 16 and under may share parents' bedroom at no charge only if there is an additional bed available. Mention the age of your children when making the reservation. Comments and suggestions webmaster @cubacasas.net |
 The palm and the cross © sogestour •|• In centre, this lovely tiny park © sogestour  Valle de Viñales © Giora Szabo •|• Campesinos walking a field © sogestour  Paz campesina © sogestour •|• Mabel and her cat at Los Acuaticos © sogestour  One of endless bucolic views © csongor - picasa •|• Mural de la Prehistoria © viaggiliberi  Our town map with casas : haz clic, chick !  The Che's Cueva de la Comandancia © sogestour •|• View of valley from Los Acuaticos © sogestour  Lighthouse on Cayo Jutias, 60 km northwest © sogestour •|• Viñales mountaineer on Milenio © Anibal, cubaclimbing |
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| WORTHY OF NOTE " The practice of casa owners paying 5 cuc to any Cuban "referring " a client is more prevalent than before in Viñales. Even from the bus stop and even if the casa owner is right there ! The jinitero argues loudly and the owner has no choice but to promise a commission. This leads to overbooking the same casa which prompts the casa owner to look for another casa willing to reimburse the 5cuc commission. And so on until the client pays for the corruption. " Another point : depending on the casas, fruit juices or coffees or other drinks like mojitos, etc are offered to clients but without specifying whether they're free or not and at which price. Some owners take note, others don't and it's only on checkout that the clients get surprise charges. Same goes for laundry services. Please : dare ask BEFORE ! " — Comments from Claire A., 26 August 2008. If you are prey to any of these practices, please tell us. — El webmaestro |
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| SEE.KNOW.DO Valley of Viñales : admire parts of its 15,000 hectares (31km long, 2-8km wide) from Los Jazmines and La Ermita hotels. Discover it on foot : three daily 3-hr excursions (Coco Solo Palmarito, Maravillas de Viñales and San Vicente/Ancon) leaving at 9h and 16h). Book through Habanatur or Cubanacan offices (facing church on Parque Marti) or in local hotels. 8cuc per person with bilingual guide • Casa de la Cultura, plastic arts gallery and music shows daily; upstairs, catch a glimpse of a city council meeting • Cueva del Indio, 400m boat tour of this underground grotto; other caves in Santo Tomas (El Moncada) • Cueva de la Comandancia (San Miguel) where the Che was posted during Bay of Pigs attack in 1962 • Fabrica de Tabacos, cigar factory, demonstrations, sales • Jardin de las Hermanas Caridad, private and free botanical garden : ornemental, medicinal plants , orchids and fruit trees • Los Acuaticos, trekking to the one casa (high up) where Mabel and her parents live. Best to leave around 4 p.m. Entrance some 500m after junction to Mural de la Prehistoria. No sign on road. Ask farmer Fernando Estrada Simon to walk up with you, a 30-min trek. Stupendous views guaranteed • Museo Municipal, local artists. Calle Salvador Cisneros 115 • Mural de la Prehistoria, 4 k west : rock facade painted by Leovigildo Gonzalez Morillo • Museo Paleontologico, at campismo Dos Hermanas |
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| BOOK BY PHONE • from Canada and the USA : 011 53 (add phone # preceded by 48 for Viñales). • from Europe, Great Britain, Scandinavia and Mexico : 00 53 (add phone # preceded by 48 for Viñales; replace 8 by 5 for cell phones). |
 BOOK BY EMAIL : Click on logo to open a message addressed to that casa in your email application; or right-click to copy address showing at bottom of browser window. Spanish vocabulary here.  |
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Click photos to get to the casa's page & description. Locate most casas on this map.
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See the casas in sequence.
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CASA LA NENA Nereyda Paula (Chichi) & Regla Paula (Nena) Camilo Cienfuegos 56, entre Sergio Dopico y C. Maragoto Tel. (48) 69-69-38, in-house c/o Chi-Chi or (48) 69-69-64 c/o of sister Nena. Cellular (5) 248-7019 Sisters Chi-Chi and Nena offer two aircon bedrooms each with a private bathroom, a small comfy living room, a mini-terrace, patio and balcony. Excellent meals (comidas criollas), breakfasts for 3cuc, dinners for 7cuc. Their passion is music and giving salsa lessons. Rates : 15-20cuc per bedroom per night (2 adults max.)  Click for more. © sogestour |
VILLA CRISTAL Francisco Martinez & su esposa Any Calle Rafael Trejo 99, entre Adela Azcuy y C. Maragoto. Cellular (5) 270-1284 (from Cuba, dial 015 instead of 5). The kind couple rents one newly-finished (Jan 08), independent-entrance, air-conditioned bedroom with its own bathroom in back of the main house in its own new building. Any's cooking is savoury and generous. Dinners are 7-8cuc, breakfasts, 3cuc. Rates : 15-20cuc per night, regular season and 25cuc in high season (20 dec.-10 jan)  Click for more. © sogestour |
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CASA TOMAS y YOLANDA Calle Camilo Cienfuegos #52, entre C. Maragoto y Sergio Dopico. Tel. (48) 69-69-31 Two doors down from La Nena, Yolanda and hubby Tomas greet viajeros in their casa tipica with its aircon bedroom, private baño and balcon and a dining terraza overlooking the owners' casita with its teja roof. Morning and sunsets are memorable, as much as Yoli's great comidas. Yolanda's sister, Catalina teaches at the local U and is keen on showing kids how to protect nature. Bringing her Spanish-language books on ecology is a great idea. Rates : 15-20cuc (2 adults max.) depending on season, breakfasts 3-4cuc, dinners 7-8 cuc. |
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VILLA EL CAFETAL Marta & Amador Martinez with Edgar Rivery Calle Adela Azcuy Norte Final s/n : sin numero (Past the estadio de beisbol, walk downhill.) Cellular (5) 223-9175 Marta and Amador's heart is as generous as their dinner portions, grapefruit tree and coffee plants. Edgar Rivery is a climber who knows every nook and cranny of the mogotes. They rent one bedroom with two double beds and a private bathroom. Small living cum dining room at the entrance. Typical and abundant Cuban cuisine. Very nicely-appointed lot, one of our favorite casas in town. Their next-door neighbor is Mileydis Feito next : |
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CASA CAMPO MILEYDIS FEITO Calle Adela Azcuy Norte #11, past the estadio de beisbol, down the street out in the fields. Tel. cellular (5) 223-8913 Except maybe for this couple of cotorras, no one here will bother you in this true country house (casa de campo) right by the valley with mogotes on the horizon. Mileydis and her husband will rent you their ventilated bedroom with private bathroom and serve you meals on their patio. And the campesinos will go by, leading their bull to the fields ... |
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CASA NENITA Emilia Diaz Serrat Salvador Cisneros Int. 61, behind the Policlinico. Tel. (48) 79-33-67 or cellular (5) 229-2737 On a street, Nenita offers two aircon bedrooms, private bathrooms and fridge. Free laundry. Friend Joel offers his services as nature and tour guide. Patio, terrace, view from the roof. Rate : 20cuc (2 adults max.) per night. |
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VILLA LA CUBANA Maria Carrasco "Mima" Rafael Trejo 92, entre Adela Azcuy y C. Maragoto. Cellular : (5) 270-1284 c/o Francisco Facing Villa Cristal, Maria affers a lovely bedroom (one double, one single) with its private bathroom in a coquette casa. She can prepare unforgettable meals, assisted by her attentive son. She greets visitors with charm and grace. Rates : 15-20cuc (2 adults max.) depending on season, breakfasts 3-4cuc, dinners 7-8 cuc. |
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SRA. ESTHER NODARSE Rafael Trejo 94, entre Adela Azcuy y C. Maragoto, facing Villa Cristal. Cellular : (5) 270-1284 c/o Francisco One air-conditioned bedroom with a private bathroom, comfy living room with tv, dining room where one can taste Esther's great fare. The vegetable garden is shared with Villa Cristal. Rates : 15-20cuc (2 adults max.) depending on season, breakfasts 3-4cuc, dinners 7-8 cuc. |
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SRA. BRUNILDA HIDALGO PELAEZ Rafael Trejo No 107-A, entre Adela Azcuy y C. Maragoto, steps from Villa Cristal. Tel. (48) 79-60-44 Reached by a passageway alkong the building on Rafael Trejo, Brunilda's rent-a-room (occupied when we visited) has its own bathroom, then a small but loverly shaded dining area and a mucho charming patio in the back. Rates : 15-20cuc (2 adults max.) depending on season, breakfasts 3-4cuc, dinners 7-8 cuc. |
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VILLA BARBI y OMAR Adela Azcuy No 12, corner of Rafael Trejo, around from Villa Cristal. Tel. (48) 79-81-93 The young couple offers one air-conditioned and fanned bedroom (occupied by an attractive Italiana when we visited) with an independent bathroom. Finely-decorated living and dining areas. Rates : 15-20cuc (2 adults max.) depending on season, breakfasts 3-4cuc, dinners 7-8 cuc. |
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CASA COLONIAL MERCEDES Sra. Mercedes Lopez Rafael Trejo No 2, near the Servi-Cupet. Cellular (5) 293-0923 Mamma Mercedes rents a high-ceilinged bedroom with a private bathroom and serves her criolla cuisine to guests in this rare colonial at one end of Rafael Trejo. Her son works in the travel industry and French and English are also spoken in this casa. Rates : 15-20cuc for the bedroom (2 adults max.) depending on season, breakfasts 3-4cuc, dinners 7-8 cuc. |
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CASA LUMINO y HERIBERTO Calle Orlando Nodarse #3, entre Adela Azcuy y Joaquin Pérez. On foot, one gets here by a narrow pedestrian lane between Camilo Cienfuegos and Orlando Nodarse Tel. (48) 69-69-52 Independently-located away from the main casa (on right), these quarters are reserved for the guests : one aircon bedroom with its private ensuite bath, a lovely shaded patio with table for dining, right by the exterior kitchen. The place is quiet and the hosts won't meddle in your affairs. Rates : 15-20cuc for the bedroom (2 adults max.) depending on season, breakfasts 3-4cuc, dinners 7-8 cuc. |
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CASA TOMASA V Tomasa y Jesus Calle Adela Azcuy , No. 6, Norte, near the center of Viñales and close to a walking path..Tel. cellular (5) 223-8857 In Cuba, dial 015 223-8857 " Tomasa and daughter Maria Luisa are simple, attaching and discreet women. Apart from being great cooks, they are good company, as their kindness and good humor are communicative. " Jésus is a very attaching man with an impressive culture. The couple rents one bedroom equiped including two double beds and a private hot water bathroom. Suggested by Alain and Mona from Québec 17.11.07 |
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CASA CLAUDINA V Claudina Alvarez Duartes Calle Camilo Cienfuegos #26, entre Adela Azcuy y Celso Maragoto Tel. (48) 79-6034  "Claudina owns a small casa and rents a rather large, simple and clean air-conditioned bedroom on a street parallel to the main street. "We spent 3 nights there because Viñales is a town in the centre of a wonderful region and because we were greeted so well. Claudina is an outstanding cook and her meals are varied." Rates : 15cuc for two for the night without breakfast. Suggested by Jean-Emmanuel and Gisèle 29.08.06 |
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VILLA LOS PINOS Sandra Fernandez Mesa y su esposo René Calle Salvador Cisneros #36 (main street), near the Cadeca and the Centro de Salud. Tel. (48) 79-6097 Colonial casa built in 1892. The aircon bedroom has plenty of natural light and two double beds. Sandra and René are excellent cooks. She is a Viñales National Park Guide and takes groups around the valley. Rates : 15-20cuc for bedroom per night (2 adults max.) |
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EL PELOTERO V Calle Adela Azcuy Norte No 29, at the exit of town, some 200m from calle principal. Tel. (48) 79-3366 Nice family, personnalized ambiance. Details forthcoming. Rates : 15cuc per night, regular season; 20-25cuc in high season (20 dec.-10 jan) |
VILLA YUDI y EMILIO V Calle Sergio Dopico 36. Tel. (48) 79-3369 "Two minutes from centre, in the middle of fields, teachers turned adorable farmers. Nice bedroom, excellent and inexpensive meals and Emilio rolls his own puros." Rates : 15cuc for the bedroom (2 pers. max.). Suggested by Jean-François and Claudia Géhant, Paris 17e - 16.03.05 |
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EL RELOJERO V Elio Suarez y Gloria Rivera Orlando Nodarse 7, on the way to Hotel La Ermita before the Escuela. Tel. (48) 69-54-29; cell. in Cuba (015) 290-5185 Two aircon bedrooms, private bathrooms. From its balcony, guests can admire the mogotes and enjoy great sunsets. Family atmosphere, delicious criolla meals (typical cuban fare). Rates : 20cuc par bedroom per night (2 pers. max.) Meals : 7 to 10 cuc, breakfasts 3cuc, mojito 2 cuc. |
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EL CAMPESINO V Senobio Perez Salvador Cisneros 202A Tel. (48) (None supplied) "A farmer and tobacco specialist, Senobio knows a great walking itinerary which allows visitors to discover the whole valley on foot. He rents one spacious and clean, air-conditioned bedroom with private bathroom. "Sumptuous meals: 6 to 8 pesos convertibles for full dinners and 3cuc for breakfasts...with fresh fruits, all from his own garden !" Rates : 15cuc for the bedroom (2 pers. max.). Suggested by Yves & Marie Noelle, Evreux (France) 22.05.05 |
OSCAR y LEIDA V Jaime Rodriguez y Leida Robaina Altega Calle Adela Azcuy 43 Tel. (48) 79-3381 The "base camp" and meeting point of mountain climbers (escalandores). A busy place : three generations and cousins live there. You will be treated like friends by Oscar, who can point out the best climbing spots in the region (for that matter, the country). |
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VILLA JOSÉ y DIANELYS V Calle Salvador Cisneros # 23 (main street) Tel : (48) 79 60 26 "Jose and Dianelys are two charming doctors who will do all it takes to welcome you in their casas where they rent, at one end of the garden an independent, air-conditioned bedroom wit a private bathroom facing a shaded patio with table and chairs. "At work, Danielis is in charge of a regional mother and child protection program. She prepares great Cuban fare : excellent fish, pork, chicken and typical veggies." Rates : 20 cuc for bedroom per night (1 double, 1 single bed); 3cuc breakfasts; 7-10cuc dinners. Suggested by Sophie and Jean-François Toussaint, Vitry sur Seine (94), France 100208 |
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