Quote — Henry Ford

Logo Cubacasas

Mogotes, Parque, Iglesia © Caroline Glasius-Nyborg  •]• The valley, the casa and the mogotes © Agripp, Belgique

This charming little village is nestled in the Sierra de los Organos, and was but a settlement during the Spanish colonial era. Although the village was founded in the 17th century, the mogotes, covered with vegetation and coral-reef like stones (very dangerous to slip on) were formed through erosion during the Jurassic era. Cuban climbers have been joined by colleagues from around the world to tackle these weird mounts, even though local authorities do not allow it as the climbers have to tramp on privately-owned farm land and, because of the high risks of accident.

The mogotes are present here in four major groups, named La Esmeralda, Dos Hermanas, Coco Solo and Del Valle.

The San Vicente region is spersed with caves : among others, Cueva del Indio, Cueva de San Miguel, El Palenque de los Cimarrones and world-renowned Caverna de Santo Tomás — with 50 km of tunnels, it is the largest in the country and second largest on the Continent.

Recently discovered, the stupendous caves of nearby
Sierra Guasasa where non-profit Pinar del Rio group Geda is pursuing its explorations.

The quiet commercial activity — and large cultural — activity borders
the main street, Cisneros, has a few colonial and columned edificios but the majority of dwellings are bungalows. There's a sense of environment protection here like nowhere else in the country. And, most important, little motor traffic. One of this webmaster's must-see places on the island.

The hundreds of
casas particulares - somesay 1,000 - here are most alike : we suggest some of the best below.

Cabo San Antonio, 197
Cayo Jutias, 60
Cayo Levisa, 60
El Moncada, 17
La Habana, 188
La Palma, 25
Las Terrazas, 115
Maria la Gorda, 178
Minas de Matahambre,
Pinar del Rio, 25
Puerto Esperanza, 20
San Diego/Los Baños, 46
San Juan y Martinez, 47
Santa Lucia, 43
Soroa, 127


MAPA pinar del rio
Map - The town with casas
Map - Pinar del Rio province nearby - Tourist areas
Map - Viñales Valley with Tourist areas
Map - Walking tours in the valley
Map - Cordillera de Guaniguanico
Map - The coast from Cayo Jutias to Cayo Levisa
Map - The province from north to south coasts
Map - Large regional
Map - Parque Nacional Viñales
Loverly video on Vimeo - Cuba Climbing
Weather for Pinar del Rio
UNESCO - World Heritage File
Plants of Viñales - A pictorial guide
Mountain climbing blog - CubaClimbing
Circuits Oeste - Itins & Top Casas
Viazul bus schedule
Island-wide bus connections (horariodebuses.com/)
Naturarte — Cuban site celebrating beauty in nature
Plants of Viñales — Hundreds, with photos
Cave exploring group Geda based in Pinar del Rio
Island-wide bus connections (horariodebuses.com/cu)
All that's natural in Pinar del Rio province

All the Web particuba.net

POPULATION 27,579 (2007)

Finca agroecologica El Paraiso, 1,5 km from town, on Carretera El Cementerio « It's a lovely organic farm on a hill with incredible views of the 'silencio' valley. Their bio food is top-notch, and Rachel uses some Indian spices in a few dishes, too. We all (family of 3) loved it here. Friendly, warm people, interesting farm to visit, and those views! » Laurie McL59, tripad, Sept. 2014; others are also casas particulares, such as DOS QUE TRES, calle Adela Azcuy 22, e/Rafael Trejo y Camilo Cienfuegos - Chef El Puma (Jose Luis) started cooking in Jan 2019. Worth a try.

Bar Las Brisas (Cisneros 96), La Casa de Don Tomás (Cisneros 140), El Palenque de los Cimarrones, La Casa del Veguero, Las Magnolias, La Terrazza of Hotel La Ermita (nice place, tempting pool), Carreta San Vicente (cabins for rent), Vera (Hotel Los Jazmines) and more, like : Patio del Decimista, Mar Magico, La Pimienta, La Cueva, Carreta de Juanry, La VI Ermita.

Centro Polo Montañez and
Casa de la Cultura (both on main square)
El Palenque de los Cimarrones (cave outside of town) and three neighboring bars on main street including
El Patio del Decimista : 3 live bands playing at the same time. Did U say cacofonico ?

Las Terrazas, departs 7h30, Rancho Curujey, arr. Soroa 11h, returns 15h

Cayo Levisa, departs 8h, returns 19h; including 30 mins. in a very slow boat (at normal speed, should take 8 mins.) By 9-psgr minibus, 25cuc including lunch, 34cuc including fins & mask, 25 more for scuba. Or drive to Palma Rubia, 60km north on the coast and take the 10am boat, 10cuc pp, return at 17h00; local private taxis will get you to the dock and come back for pick-up at 17h (the only return boat time) for 50-60cuc for the car, return. (48) 75-65-01

Maria la Gorda, 25cuc. Book through Havanatur or Cubanacan, beside the libreria (some books in English), facing Parque Marti

Cayo Jutias beach on north coast, 60 km northwest via Minas de Matahambre and scenic mountain road. Access by pedraplen, entry fee 5cuc : just a regular beach (and some more, deserted, walking west), scuba rental and bar-rest'rant; local private taxis will do it for 50-60cuc for the car, return. (48) 77-8131 or take a bus day tour for 22 cuc: departs 9 am, includes lunch and comes back at 16h00 with 5 hours beach time.

Cabo San Antonio : its wooden villas (75$ per night, double), marina, lighthouse, all in a Biosphere Reserve at the extreme very, very end of Cuba, some 200 km from here. Our page

Trains from La Habana "El Lechero" (the Milk Run #225) leaves La Habana at 22h05 every 2nd day arriving Pinar del Rio at 03h50 then hitch (if u can find) a taxi ride to here or overnight; returns (#224) leaves Pinar del Rio at 09h45 arriving Havana at 15h30.

Local private taxis (now legal with new permits) can take you to Cayo Jutias or Cayo Levisa (Palma Rubia), wait for you and return here for 50-60cuc for the car : up to you to find other pax. Also Pinar del Río 10CUC, Palma Rubia 25CUC (for daytrip to Cayo Levisa), Caverna Santo Tomás, 16CUC

Scooters for rent right by the Don Tomas restaurant (see map) on main street; Transtur also rents near church.

Cayo Jutias (60 km), Cayo Levisa (50 km), Cabo San Antonio (197 km), Maria la Gorda (178 km)

RIVER SWIM In rio Resvaloso near Cueva de la Vaca (ask around, everyone knows, Cubans abound in summer).

From Havana's major hotels (Zona 3 Vieja, Zona 2 Vedado, Zona 1 Miramar) a daily Transtur bus leaves between 8h and 8h40 and gets here through Pinar del Rio to local hotels and the church plaza (Hotel Jazmines 12h30, church plaza 12h40 and hotels Ermita and Rancho San Vicente at 12h50 et 13h10.

Return trip leaves at 14h stops at the plaza at 14h15 Pinar 15h40, and Miramar Hotels at 18h10, Vedado Hotels 18h30 and Hotel Inglaterra at 19h. Sked & rates here.

67 seconds on main street Salvador Cisneros a continuous traveling on main street - video © sogestour

Twice per day, a Viazul bus goes from Havana and back - via Pinar del Rio. Call it Ruta 10 (Roota Diez) — Click for sked on Viazul site, Fred.

Cuban scientist Humberto Rios Labrada was awarded the Goldman Environmental Prize ("the Ecology Nobel Prize") for his research on seeds, went to Bolivia in 2014 to teach and moved to Spain in 2015 to bring his expertise there too ! © Will Parrinello

Church park in town center © sogestour
The palm and the cross © sogestour | Same park in centre, otra vista © sogestour

Valle de Viñales by Giora Szabo

Valle de Viñales © Giora Szabo | Campesinos walking a field © sogestour

Josue Millo is getting a buzz on a rock face (ruta) named « Bee Factory » © cubaclimbing.com — Click •|• Halfway between here and Cayo Levisa, the village of La Palma where Humberto (top photo) and local farmers proved that they could do without deadly pesticides © Robin Thom, Flickr
Josue Millo
is getting a buzz on a rock face (ruta) named « Wasp Factory » © cubaclimbing.com — Click ••• See this enlargement of Reiniel Sosa here |Halfway between here and Cayo Levisa, the village of La Palma © Robin Thom Photography

Three chicas with an irresistible smile : are country youngsters more luminous than city kids ? © clapat, Flickr

The exquisite valle © sogestour
The mogotes as only
angels and drones can see them © Unseen Cuba / Marius Jovasa | Mural de la Prehistoria © viaggiliberi

The Che's
Cueva de la Comandancia © sogestour | View of the valley from legendary spot Los Acuaticos © sogestour

Minas de Matahambre
(32 km northwest) welcomed immigrants from Haiti, China, Spain, the USA, Germany, Czechoslovakia, Brazil and especially Japan. There are still 1,000 Cubans of Japanese descendency on the island.Research by Nelia Maria Paez Vives and Lic Omar Miranda Barbosa.

Vimeo Video A convincing 2-min. argument by renan ozturk
Video to convince local authorities they should give full support to mogote-climbing. A convincing 2-min. argument by renan ozturk on Vimeo here. A fabulous 17-min. HD work of art & physical feat by Ms Paige Claassen here.

"An amazing family-run organic farm & restaurant on top of a hill with amazing sunset views" : Finca agroecologica is recommended by all including Beth B from Chester Springs, PA on tripad 160814

Transtur Viñales Hop-on, Hop-off ©
Daily with 9 departures between 9h and 19h. Unlimited use for the day with 18 stops.

Transtur offices by the iglesia; tel (48) 79-6060.

You may choose from :


Facing the small central park with its church at 63 Salvador Cisneros (main calle) Tel. (48) 79-3195 Ruta 10 here

Pinar del Río 10CUC, Palma Rubia 25CUC (for daytrip to Cayo Levisa), Caverna Santo Tomás, 16CUC
daily departures at 9h (via Las Terrazas) and 14h arrive at 12h35 and 17h40 via Pinar del Rio.

Départure 14h00 for Pinar del Rio, then Las Terrazas (8 cuc) and La Habana arr at 17h35 (12 cuc)

Shared cab in pesos cubanos by the Servi-Cupet gas station village. Spot the man in yellow.
Départurte 7h30 from Viñales to La Habana 10h50 then Entronque de Jaguey 12h55 (for Playas Larga and Giron on the bay of pigs) then Cienfuegos 14h40. Arrives Trinidad ar 16h15 Ruta 42 here

Départure Viñales for Cienfuegos and Trinidad (20cuc per person in a shared cab or minibus). Drops you off at your casa avoiding bus station.

© Kristo, pintor y amigo del pueblo cubano

Wifi zones all along main street Cisneros, some casas such as La Nena, Villa Irure and others have Internet in-house. Etecsa office sells wifi cards daily from 8h30 to 19h30 Centro Multiservicios (Calle G. Fernández No. 3 e/ S. Cisneros y R. Trejo) A professional massage ? Yesss ! Ask Ariel Herrera Barrios, offering massages locally since 2007 for men and women. Rates : 20 cuc back and neck 30 mins, 30cuc one hour (back, neck and reflexolology). Cel. 53 31 17 77 Will go to your casa. Cadeca (money exchange, Cisneros 92 Tel 79-6334) Havanatur (48) 79-6161 or 79-6262 Cubanacan (48) 79-639

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Speleo pour grandes et petites grottes


Randonnées dans la vallée
To discover the visual treasures of the caverns and caves, couloirs and passages of the Sierra Guasasa : try Pinar del Rio group GEDA, named after the great cave — 5 km long — discovered in 1998; photo galleries of Geda's excursions here. [ A reminder for fans of the lost stalagtite or recovered stalagmite : tite goes down, mite goes up ; )

To get a first look at local rock faces (rutas) on the mogotes, consult Campismo Dos Hermanas tel. (48) 79-3223 which can organize outings or « escalamiento de montañas ». Rutas with evocative names : Don Cojete de la Mancha, El Cubano de Regresa or our favorite : Mujer, Peligro y Placer (« Woman, Danger, Pleasure ») [Some local climbing paths (rutas) in Viñales here. [Article about Yarobis Garcia in Havana Times March 2018 here Cuba Climbing, the film by Ms Paige Claassen with Yarovis Garcia, edited by Adam Ermatinger (on Vimeo) here.

Local club is still not supported by authorities [even though Fidel was an outdoors kinda guy and sometimes climber in his student days near Santiago; Che had — during the 1962 missile crisis — a comandancia nearby (open for visits still), once climbed Mexico's highest peak] because some authority can't make up his mind whether he likes it or not. Go figure ; - (. But Cubans in the know will get you there one way or the other, don't worry.
[ Help support local climbers by leaving some of your equipment in their care.
[ Best climbing guide on the area dates from 2009 (but the mogotes have not moved, eh ?) here. It's authored by Anibal Fernandez & Armando Menocal and is still available for purchase - from Quickdraw Publications
À cheval ou à pied, mémé La belle terre rouge
Un arbre et son mogote
The mogotes are present here in four major groups, named La Esmeralda, Dos Hermanas, Coco Solo and Del Valle.

Walks and treks : some easy ones, available with guides : del Mirador al Valle (from the outlook down to the valley, 4 hours); de la Mano del Campesino (from the hands of the farmer, 4 hours); en el Corazon del Valle (in the heart of the Valley, 4 hours); visita a la Casa Campesina (visit to a country house, 1 hour); Paseo artistico de taller (local visit to three artists, 2-3 hours); all can be done also on horseback; your casa will show you where to get on the saddle.

[To join such walks, go to Museo Adela Azcuy, calle Salvador Cisneros (main street), every day open 9-15h.

Tradiciones Campesinas (Country Traditions) —7 km, 7 hours); Del Infierno al Paraíso (From Hell to Heaven — very hard - 8,6 km, 6-7 hours); Los Paisajes en al Valle (Scenery in the Valley — 7,6 km, 4 hours); De la Mano del Guajiro (From the countryman's hand — 4 km, 3 hours) List here.
Valley of Viñales : admire parts of its 15,000 hectares (31 km long, 2-8 km wide or 18 by 5 miles) from Los Jazmines and La Ermita hotels. Discover it on foot : three daily 3-hr excursions (Coco Solo Palmarito, Maravillas de Viñales and San Vicente/Ancon) leaving at 9h and 16h). Book through Habanatur or Cubanacan offices (facing church on Parque Marti) or in local hotels. 8cuc per person with bilingual guide Casa de la Cultura, plastic arts gallery and music shows daily; upstairs, catch a glimpse of a city council meeting Cueva del Indio, 400m boat tour of this underground grotto; other caves in Santo Tomas (El Moncada) Cueva de la Comandancia (San Miguel) where the Che was posted during Bay of Pigs attack in 1962 Fabrica de Tabacos, cigar factory, demonstrations, sales Jardin de las Hermanas Caridad, private and free botanical garden : ornemental, medicinal plants , orchids and fruit trees Los Acuaticos, trekking to casas (high up). Best to leave around 4 p.m. Entrance some 500m after junction to Mural de la Prehistoria. No sign on road. Stupendous views guaranteed Museo Municipal, local artists. Calle Salvador Cisneros 115 Mural de la Prehistoria, 4 k west : rock facade painted by Leovigildo Gonzalez Morillo Museo Paleontologico, at campismo Dos Hermanas Cabo de San Antonio : its wooden villas (75$ per night, double), marina, lighthouse, all in a Biosphere Reserve at the extreme west end of Cuba, some 200 km from here. Our page
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The valley © unklnown, flickr.com •[• The church, the village, the valley © sogestour
::: Make sure that in your first email or phone call you specify that you want to book a room in that particular casa and that you will reconfirm your booking on arrival in Cuba. Unless you only want a room in any house which may be of the same quality, not the specific casa you booked through photos on these websites ::: So as to not abandon expecting owners with empty rooms, reconfirm (or call ahead to cancel) your booking by phone as soon as you can after arriving in Cuba ::: Please write or phone a casa owner to cancel a booking. As late as it may seem, it allows them a chance to rebook. ::: Children under the age of 16 may share a bedroom with adults for free. Specify the child's age when booking. ::: Since October 2010, maximum bedroom capacity is not limited to two adults ::: Also, large casas are not limited to renting only two bedrooms per night. ::: At the end of the casa name, the V signals the casa was suggested by travelers or owners but not verified by the website staff. If you try it and like it, write us about it. ::: Unless otherwise mentioned, the average room rates and service prices are : 20-25cuc per bedroom per night [up to 40+ for 4 in a room]; breakfasts 3-5cuc, dinners 7-10cuc. ::: Any casa particular anywhere in Cuba must have a hot water shower, otherwise it cannot have a permit to rent ::: Please share your Complaints, comments & suggestions webmaster [@]cubacasas.net

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• from Canada and the USA : 011 53 (add phone # preceded by 48 for Viñales) • from Europe, Great Britain, Scandinavia and Mexico : 00 53 (add phone # preceded by 48 for Viñales) ••• HOW TO DIAL A CUBAN PHONE NUMBER HERE ••• CELL PHONE NUMBERS on our town lists and casa pages are preceded by 05 for calls originating Havana; from anywhere else in Cuba, dial 015 + the 7 digits of the cell.

Click on logo to open a message addressed to that casa in your email application; or right-click to copy address. Spanish vocabulary here. Google translate here.
Click photos to get to the casa's page & description. Locate most casas on this map.
See the casas in sequence.

Click arrow to start visit.
Three aircon bedrooms, ensuites, patio, terrace
Camilo Cienfuegos 56, up town, roof terrace entre Sergio Dopico y C. Maragoto Tel. (48) 69-69-38. Cell 52 48 70 19

LA NENA © sogestour

Two aircon bedrooms, ensuite bathrooms
Camilo Cienfuegos 52, up town, lovely patio entre Sergio Dopico y C. Maragoto. Tel. (48) 69-69-31

Two aircon bedrooms, ensuite bathrooms
Calle Adela Azcuy Norte Final s/n : sin numero, passed the estadio de beisbol, steps to walking path. Cell 53 31 17 52

Two independent aircon br's, ensuite baths
Calle Salvador Cisneros # 203-C, behind feria & mercado. Tel. (48) 69-5127 cell 05 823-3677 (You may book via SMS)

Three aircon bedrooms, ensuites, views
Calle Adela Azcuy Norte 11, past the estadio de beisbol, down the street out in the fields. Cellular 53 36 54 02

One indep bedroom, 2 double beds, ensuite bath
Calle Adela Azcuy Norte 29, almost facing the estadio de beisbol and close to a walking path. Tel. (48) 79-3366

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Four ac bedrooms, ensuites, shaded patio
Calle Rafael Trejo Este 10B al final de la calle (at the end of this dead-end street) up town, in-house patio Tél. (48) 69 69 05

Five aircon bedrooms, ensuites, pool
Salvador Cisneros Int. 61, like a mini-hotel, valley view behind the Policlinico. Tel. (48) 79-60-04

One ac bedroom, 2 double beds, ensuite bath
Pasaje Camilo Cienfuegos #52, uptown. Tel. (48) 69-6657

Lucilo y Nirma © sogestour
One ac bedroom, 2 double beds, ensuite bath
Calle Orlando Nodarse 39, entre Sergio Dopico y Adela Azcuy, uptown. Tel (48) 69-6891 Cell 05 331-1862

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One ac bedroom, 2 double beds, ensuite bath
Calle Adela Azcuy Norte No. 34, passed the campo de beisbol and close to a walking path. Cell 05 223-8910

www.particuba.net •|• Viñales ::: ORLANDO y YUANA

One ac bedroom, 2 double beds, ensuite bath
Calle Rafael Trejo 18 e/Mariana Grajales y Joaquin Perez, two blocks from the Viazul bus stop. Tel. (48) 69-6714

www.cubacasas.net •|• Viñales ::: CASA PAPO y NIULVYS
One ac bedroom, 2 double beds, ensuite bath
Km 25 carretera a viñales, # 6-B, entering village, about 100m from high school (Secundaria Básica)
Tel. (48) 69-5155 cell 015 331-1720

One ac bedroom, 2 double beds, ensuite bath
Calle Primera # 4b between a and b, in reparto La Carbonera. Cell. 58 82 93 17

Aircon bedrooms (2), ensuite baths
Calle Salvador Cisneros 75 (main street, entre Adela Azcuy y Ceferino Fernández, 50 m from the Plaza principal. Tel (48) 79-6281

Two aircon bedrooms, ensuites, valley view
Calle Segunda pasaje 7 número 8, reparto El Bostezo, overlooking the valley. Tel (48) 69-5571 or (48) 64-6145

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Three aircon bedrooms, ensuite baths
Calle Joaquin Perez No. 25, three blocks from centro. Tel (48) 79-3217 cell (5) 292-6413

One aircon br, ensuite bath, mountain view
Calle Adela Azcuy Norte Final #61a, passed the beisbol stadium, steps from the entrance to the valley of mogotes..Cell. (5) 245-3116 or (5) 303-0649


Footprint (FH), GéoGuide (GG), Lonely Planet (LP), Le Routard (LR), Michelin (MC), Moon (MH), Petit Futé (PF), Rough Guide (RG) and web site Trip Advisor (TA)
::: FH : Deborah Susana, El Cafetal, Oscar Jaime, Ridel y Claribel, Renga y Julia, Villa Tery ::: GG : Villa Purry, Bernardo y Belkis, El Balcon de Mignelis, El Habano, Juana y Nela, Villa Nené, Niurkis, Yolanda, Horizontes, Geo, Miriam y Luisa ::: LP : Daniela, Papo y Niulvis, Villa Los Reyes, Juanito el Joyero, La Autentica, Haydée Chiroles, El Niño, Nenita, Jean-Pierre, Villa Cafetal, El Balcon, Doña Hilda ::: LR : René y Carmen, Gladys, Colonial Rabanal, ::: MC : Villa Nelson, Pepito y Santi, Haydee y Chiroles, Boris y Cusita, Milagros y Yamile, Villa Campana, Villa Silvia ::: MH : La Autentica, Villa Corales, Villa Teresa, Mirtha Azcuy, Puesta del Sol ::: PF : Celeste y Tabita, Cusyta y Boris, Elda y Luis Luis, Josefina y Esther, Leonel, Pepito y Santi, Mayelin y Celia, Nolo, Omaida Rodriguez, Eloy Hernandez. La Esquinita, Holiday Inn, Maria Luisa Alonso, Villa Alegre, Antonio y Blanquita, Villa Caricia, Dalia y Millo, Maruco y Zoila, Damaris, Magadalena, Nelson, Pupi y Emilio, Yuri y Nino ::: RG : El Cafetal, Bernardo y Belkis, Horizontes, Las Sorpresas, Tres Caballeros, La Esquinita, El Isleño, Haydée, Magdalena, Maykel ::: TA (Top 8 & 200+ratings) : 1-Vista al Valle 264, 1A-Mary y Andres 251, 2-Las Sorpresas 223, 2A-Ridel y Claribel 848, 3-Ignacio y Raiza 131, 3A-El Habano 570, 4-Las Flores 80, 4A-Margarita 409, 5-Nolo 129, 5A-Jorge y Ana Luisa 774,6-Yerandy y Yanet 61, 6A-El Porry 474, 7-El Mojito 208, 7A-Tres Caballeros 281, 8A-Mis Cumbres 92, Marilyn 447, Villa Cristal 309, Papo y Niulvis 243, Leyani y Osvedy 242, Nenita 237, Sunny Balcony 221, Haydée Quiroles 207, Villa Marisol 205 110218


Logo Cubacasas

Content & photos © sogestour

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Updated 12.01.2019